Nope. It's a 62 fairlane. The car came out of the factory with a 260 but came across from the us with a 289 in. There were no numbers anywhere on it apart from the timing cover which said it was an early 1962 289. Which would make it one of the first, if the timing cover was original. The block has a small metal tag saying it had been rebuilt in 95 and had been over bored.
I don't have a ballast resistor. Just a regulator box
i would take a guess and say the fault lies in the pink resistor wire which is connected to ign switch goes to connector block under dash where it changes color on the other side of the connecter to a red wire the a tracer color either blue/green that wire goes to coil you should have 12v at this wire when you switch on ign.
If you dont have 12v when you switch on ign the resistor wire is blown just replace it with standard wire.
Run a new wire straight from ignition to the coil?
No. I have seen the car about though but not long enough to go say hello.
Just a thought, if it's the ignition wire I can understand it being a pig to start but once running would it make it cut out?
Once running it drops to 9v that's what the resistor does
Earth straps all cleaned, replaced or renewed. No difference. Ran a new wire from ignition to starter solenoid. Nothing. Replaced wire between solenoid and coil. Nothing. I don't have a volt meter so can't check anything. Would starter solenoid be giving 9v to the coil. If so I need 12v to start it. Would running a new wire from the ignition direct to the coil work ? That way ignition wire feeds solenoid and coil when cranking but solo kid supplies coil when running? Does that make sense or am I being an idiot???
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