Ford 289 running issues. - Page 4
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  1. #31
    I'm a grown up member now !
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    No I don't have a voltmeter I need to get one. Electricity has always frightened me so I've stayed away!! Lol

    I thought running a constant live from the battery to the coil would kill the coil?

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  3. #32
    Semi Proffessional Prat sidspop's Avatar
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    Joe, here is the address of a supplier of electrical gubbins,

    Toolstation UK Ipswich
    Quantum Business Park,
    White House Road,
    Ipswich,
    IP1 5NX.

    A very basic tester , 84459 Car Light Tester 6V - 24V @ £2

    Or a better bet is a meter ,

    11867 Digital Multi Meter @ £5.90

    To answer your last point, yes, if you had a plus and minus connected all the time, a coil would die. But you don't. The plus is connected all the time but the negative is switched, via the points. Some more reading for you. Distributor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    If you connect a wire from ign to the coil, and a wire from start to the solenoid it will run.
    Its either you lay down and die or you get on with your shit till you do!!!!! No Other Way Around It. One or the other. Don't worry about being forgotten, you will. Rather worry about in how long it will take for you to be forgotten, bro.

  4. #33
    I'm a grown up member now !
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    Bought it!!! Can't get it to work!!! Lol. Anyway found a black wire going to the negative on the coil coming from the loom. Don't know what it is. Pulled it off and fired straight up. Ran fine for. 5 mins then just dropped its revs and wouldn't rev up. Just ticked over lumpy. Tried to rev and would die. Then cut out. Then found the bottom of the rad leaking. Looked over cooling system and the stat housing is leaking as well. Top and bottom house rock hard and hot. Core of the rad cold. Blockage somewhere.

    Went to turn over and battery flat do alternator not charging. So engine ford because. 1/ overheated. 2/ not enough power in battery to power the coil or combination of both.

    And so it goes on!!!! Lol

    I hate cars!!!

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