Gearbox oil clarity
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  1. #1
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Gearbox oil clarity

    What I mean is - seeing through all the codes and numbers and sorting a problem. My problem is that my gearbox has a basic breather on the top cover - a little plastic thing with tiny grooves to vent the box. it isn't blocked and anyone might think it should work as it also has an internal baffle. I added lubricant to the level plug hole - an 80/90 grade from local motor store. Drove till the whole lot was warm and oil was running steady from the breather. Maybe the oil was foaming excessively and perhaps a better oil might foam less but looking on the net I read gear oils dont contain anti-foaming agent as they are purely a splash system. Maybe.
    Another thing - my kawasaki race bike ran a fully synthetic Rock oil, Syn4 15/50, and this did well for both the engine and gearbox. I have a big can of this oil so why not put this in my car gearbox as its much the same setup as the car. Maybe it wont foam so much and it certainly will be a better quality oil if price is anything to do with it and as far as temperature is concerned it will be running cooler than the bike as the cambox was acting as an oil boiler. My hesitance is due to the different grades - can I change an 80/90 for a 15/50? I will fit a different breather anyway, a short pipe with a long tube running up into the engine bay, with a catch tank if necessary that will also drain back, a sort of anti-froth tower. What do you think?
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    NO!
    Putting in 15/50 will probably ruin your gearbox. Its too thin to lubricate properly.
    Just add a breather extension tube and that should fix it.

  4. #3
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Yes I agree now having had a good session on the net reading about oils. Lubricating oil is a bit of a black art to me so it was interesting to read about the differences between synthetic and mineral bases and the additives that are put in to modify them. Motorcycle gears are straight cut so the shear is less it seems so my synthetic 15/50 would cover it even though power at back wheel is about double. But in my Triumph box the gears are helical so shear is much greater and wear across the gear teeth would be more likely. Another thing, engine oils mostly contain detergent to keep the particles in suspension to be collected by the filter so again my motorcycle situation is ok. In my car gearbox I need the metal particles to drop to the bottom and not get circulated so a detergent additive is not good. So, its a 9mm plastic elbow stuck into the gearbox top plate in place of the breather and some clear plastic 9mm tube up to somewhere in the engine bay.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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  6. #4
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    Proper EP 90 with a lucas stabilizer is what I'd suggest, extend the breather and make sure the box isn't over filled. If its over filled it would come out via the breather

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    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Yes definitely never over-filled. I heard from another 1500 Triumph single rail gearbox user that the breather is prone to leaking oil. This saga is striking another chord with me now. Our jeep with VM 2.5 diesel used to spill its oil when it was topped up to the level plug. it used to come out at the top semewhere and being a 4wd I expect it was the breather high up to avoid water ingress. Perhaps its time I got some proper gearbox oil and stopped scrimping with the budget stuff. I like the old gearboxes that breath through the gearstick cup but cant do with remote lever like on this one.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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    Carlube is what I use or comma.....nothing too fancy, most of my gearboxes breathe out the top and they all leak a little but don't pour out. Nothing worrying.......just top up at every other service

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