Gearbox re-fit from under the car - Advice Please
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  1. #1
    /////////\\\\\\\\\ FordCorsair's Avatar
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    Gearbox re-fit from under the car - Advice Please

    Having got the gearbox out of the Corsair (V4, 1700) to inspect/look at the clutch assembly yesterday (Thu 2 May 2013), I failed to get the 'box back in as I ran out strength (muscle) and started to doubt I could do it alone... (3 hours or so of struggling)

    I was using two trolley jacks, one to support the rear and the other was under the main (middle) section. I got about 2" away from it going in. I have one alignment tool screwed in to the engine block. My clutch assembly was all centralised using a proper tool (not a home made bodge as done in the past) and was still centralised after I gave up, in case I'd knocked the friction plate out of alignment.

    I've blogged about it here on my personal site

    Does anyone have some hints/tips that could help?
    The annoying thing is that I've replaced a 1.6 Capri gearbox on my own once before, but then I was younger and fitter.

    The main reason for all this is the clutch mechanism is seized (still could be..) but I don't know how/if i could bench test the pressure plate. I have no spare cash at the mo to even contemplate buying new part(s), this is just so I can move the car about the driveway/garage.

    Dom
    Last edited by FordCorsair; 03-05-2013 at 13:45.
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  3. #2
    Minge Jungle_jim's Avatar
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    I seem to be getting a 404 on your link mate
    Correlation is not causation

  4. #3
    /////////\\\\\\\\\ FordCorsair's Avatar
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    Jim,

    Thanks, link fixed.

    DOm
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    Light n Lager specialist. 103ePop's Avatar
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    I feel your pain, I will have to put a clutch in my Consul pretty soon, only yesterday managed to get a little more adjustment on the throw to see me through the Summer season (hopefully).

    The only advice I can give is to see if you can tilt the engine downwards a little at the back by jacking carefully under the crank pully. Sometimes it makes hitting the sweet spot between clutch and gearbox easier.
    Last edited by 103ePop; 03-05-2013 at 15:53.

  7. #5
    /////////\\\\\\\\\ FordCorsair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 103ePop View Post
    ....

    The only advice I can give is to see if you can tilt the engine downwards a little at the back by jacking carefully under the crank pully. Sometimes it makes hitting the sweet spot between clutch and gearbox easier.
    Thanks for that! With arm aching pain at the time I didn't consider that option. I'm hoping I can have another go on Monday.

    Thanks again.

    Dom

    PS: this was my 500th post, of which 5% have been of relevance on here!!
    Last edited by FordCorsair; 03-05-2013 at 19:15. Reason: 500 posts!
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  8. #6
    TechnicalTom
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    A few other things may be worth trying too , if you have a welder and an angle grinder, or better still have access to a workshop, make a " cradle "for the trolley jack , common sense will dictate the design , (basically use some 1" box iron and some 2" flat,) then weld some solid bar of the correct diameter for the spigot , also if its a floor gear lever , tie some rope around the gear box and up through the gear lever hole and wrap it around a timber plank, now you should have enough support of the box to use just one trolley jack, another "trick" is to use some timber wedges between the exhaust pipes and the floor of the car, this will with a bit of luck will have the back of the cylinder heads touching the bulkhead.I seem to remember using Mini cylinder head studs screwed into the engine block on some early Fords to act as a guide for the gearbox , UNC thread, or maybe some threaded bar if its metric .
    Last edited by TECHNICALTOM; 03-05-2013 at 20:13.

  9. #7
    Official RnS Addict fad15's Avatar
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    Clean the dowels with some grit paper till they are shinny, then clean the dowel holes as well. Most of the time when a trans is hard to mate to the block its because these two parts are corroded and simply too tight for a nice easy fit. Every trans we fit we do this. If they are really bad we also copper slip them. If you have a plate between the box and block a good trick is to put it on the block and the with a centre punch angled to the point where the plate and dowel meet put a center dot on the dowel. This will keep the plate in place when you slide the trans on to the block and stop it slipping off and ****ing you off because you have to start again.

    Hope this helps
    G
    built by hand NOT by computer

  10. #8
    /////////\\\\\\\\\ FordCorsair's Avatar
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    Thank you, gentlemen.

    Plank/rope/gear-lever hole sounds like a good idea. Not sure I've got what it takes to make a cradle, knowing me I'll over engineer and spend all day making that!!! .

    Will clean my dowels and dowel holes, just to make sure, but I wasn't even getting the 'box that close! Plate between block and box has stayed put so far...

    Many thanks, some food for thought.

    Dom
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  11. #9
    fat rotbox rodder hurtz's Avatar
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    the corsair box /early xflow`s (ball with long stick)are heavy gear boxes. there is a scissor style and hydrolic gear box jack on castors that's available with adjustable angle .they look something like this
    Floor Horizontal Hydraulic Transmission / Gear Box Jack 1 ton NEW | eBay
    you might be able to hire one for a few hours .I used one on my car a few years ago made it easier getting a th350 gear box back into my 100e
    livin' on beer 'n' jaffa cakes -one box per pintHidden Content

  12. #10
    Col
    Heavy Oiler Col's Avatar
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    Another tip is to have 'box in gear and rotate prop end to line splines up as you try and push the 'box on.
    Hidden Content Now off the road for body off rebuild. Will have blown bigblock & 5 spd gearbox.

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