Help needed with JAG IRS setup

[chris]

got it - thanks flower

[impala500]

Once you take it out of the cage , bolt the topdiff mounts solidly to a crossmember and do away with the big rubber bushes the geometry needs to be right. If it's incorrect it loads up the lower fulcrum bearings and wipes them out in short order.

Like much rodding stuff the inadequacies of many rodding designs is hidden by low mileages.

Ahh, ok then I have mounted mine on a bushed mount like this one:

Will that make any difference? I am trying to keep the underside clean and not have and ground clearance problems, I will take some pictures soon once I can get a reader for the camera card

[kapri]

The urethanes will provide a degree of insulation and movement but no where near as much as the rubber mounted cage.
Go with the shorter bottom arm and it pivoting on a line drawn forward from the lower inner arm mount. Don't forget the anti climb bars, Wisbech do a nice kit with front tie bar etc that places it all where it needs to be and you just have to make the mounts from the rail out.

The anti climb bars are especially important on a urethane mounted diff.

[impala500]

For though's that don't know the 59 Impala Chassis here are some details of it and how I have done the mods to it.

[sean hennessy]

Hi have just overcome the same problem, in a nutshell you need to extend the line of the lower arm pivot point on the diff, the link can be anywhere on this line, to do this i took the nut off the pivot shaft and slid a 20mm solid bar with a hole up the end over it, i live in acle so not too far away. hope this helps

[stilltrying]

There are some who say that if the diff is solid mounted they are not needed at all unless you are running big horse power or a heavy body. My T doesn't have the radius rods but does have the anti climb straps.
FadT hasn't fitted them to his T either and swears they are not necessary on a light rod like his, Nick Butler only fitted them to Andromeda because of the sheer power and if I'm not mistaken I don't think that the front mounts on it are in line with the lower diff section due to not enough room. The most important bit is the anti climb straps.
As an aside to make the radius rods "stiffer" jaguar just put the front bush in the same housing but instead of having the cut outs in the rubber bush front and rear they turned it by 90 degrees so that there was a greater proportion of rubber to move before any give (all xjs's were done this way).

[hotrod.0148]

Hi I am in the middle of relocating my tie rods too.

[jay1shrek]

if fitting them 'forward' wont work couldnt they be fitted going backwards towards the rear ??????

Just found this pic that might answer that

[kapri]

Hi I am in the middle of relocating my tie rods too, these were fitted by the previous owner directly forwards , this is no good as they then follow an ark when lifted up and down and because the swing arm travels directly up and down this causes big binding problems and will break expensive stuff!
Kev is (as usual) correct, the location is very important. I even tried without the tie rods too, Mmmm I would not recommend this , as a very snakey two laner on the motorway the other weekend left me and the better, very white . Nige

Still having 'fun' then Nige ?

[kapri]

Just found this pic that might answer that

Never thought about iy but most rods area bit short at the back. Bushes may need to be changed as the rotational load is going the other way so joints will be in tension as opposed to compression.

EDIT .Without spending ages looking at it ( cos it's only a theoretical question at the mo ) I'm guessing ttha it will do weird things to the tyre hook up and launching.