Rods 'n' Sods - UK Hot Rod & Street Rod Forums banner

help with timing a V8 60

Tags
timing
2K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  Real 39 
#1 ·
:SHi Having a lot of trouble timing and getting my engine to perform, its a v8 60 Flathead I have just fitted a cam and twin strombergs (81,s) ignition is a Mallory electronic unit as there is no timing marks on the crank pulley i wonder if any one else has cum across this problem I intend to have the heads of and set the T. D. C. AND FIT A TIMING MARKER TO THE GRANK is this something any one has dun ? if so any advice pics would help . or is there a rod shop with a rolling road with the nohow to set up a side valve engine prefer it to be in the Cambridge shire area but will travel if needed to get it to the right place advice pleas .:sniff::sniff::sniff:
 
#2 ·
Pull the heads and make a timing mark you can use the stop method like Brizy said on the other site but if you want it spot bollok use a dial gage up to you.
I will back them up bout the new dizzy I played with some and heard lots of um run and its a very rare thing to find one thats got the right timing (I have a very keen ear when it comes to Fords lovelys!) Most of the aftermarket Flatty mallorys have way to much max advance and the advance comes in way to late. Ajustment for max advance on stops in the dizzy but to get it in earlyer yuo will need softer springs.
Best of British
Martin.
 
#7 ·
oh and if you can't find somebody with one, a bolt threaded into the plug hole can be used. Pull the dizzy cap, turn the motor by hand with all the plugs removed until the rotor point to where No1 ign lead would be on the cap. That way you know it's on the firing stroke. Thread the bolt too far into the bore so the motor locks by hand, unscrews the bolt in tiny amounts until the motor just moves past TDC and you're roughly at TDC. If you want to be spot on use a dial gauge on something floating but a good fit in the plug hole
 
#8 ·
:

The ROTER BIT IS OK But the bolt bit don't work as its a side valve thanks for the info i had the heads off and got it spot on now just got to find out about the advance curve on the Mallory distribitor as i believe it may be the trouble !!!!!!!!!!!!
 
#9 ·
Hopefully there should be 2 ajustable stops in the dizzy below the points plate ( or behind the points plate cus being mounted on the front) to limit the max advance loosen the allen bolts and movem allong the slot to ajust. Softer springs in there will let it advance quicker.
Most Flatty Mallorys I seen have got lots more advance than required. 1 had 38 degrees in stead of 24-26 total. With a mild cam say Isky max1 or so on in a normal Flathead likes maybe 6-10 deg initial timing, slap on the afore mentiond dizzy and you get 44-48 deg total!! Not good for acceleration / power / rod bearing life.
The main symptoms the car showed were poor power (for engine spec) poor fuel consumption and surging wilst at cruising speed.
Thats my polite version of my Malory experiance. Cider will bring out a lot ruder and more grafic tale of woe, but I might get sued.
Martin.
 
#11 ·
Martin, did you cure the dizzy problems? I am running a Mallory unit and found it advances too quick. It's ok up to about 1800 rpm then pinks a little then after 2000 rpm it's ok again.
Keith I found to get the engine running the dizzy could be nipped up in the centre of the slots. I have made a timming marker but mine is a 59A and I can't remember how I did it.
A word of caution, the Mallory electonics don't survive problems well you need good plug leads and I had to remove my steel wiring harness as it took the electronics out, don't use a too powerfull coil either.
Richard.
 
#13 ·
Yes mate all curable if you rekon it advancing to quikly try some stronger springs, But I would recomend as you made a timing mark try to get a dizzy curve drawn out using a timing gun like the 1 mentioned earlyer. (I agree with Mart here they are good but they cant time a motor with no marks!)
At least that way you have a point of referance to relate too when making dizzy mods.
And as a side note the info Mark refered to on the Yank site the recomended total advance of 21 deg is a bit on the safe side, over here we have better rated fuel (super and unleaded) and we can use and I like to see 24-26 on a fit Flatmotor.
 
#12 ·
Seems to be a lot of mis-information and guesses being bandied about.
Keith: shame you pulled the heads, it may not have been necessary. Best way to get tdc accurately is to stop the piston a bit down from tdc in one direction,mark the pulley, rotate the engine in the opposite direction and stop it at the same point, mark the pulley again. The true tdc is exactlt half way between the two marks. I did this recently on my flatty with a piece of heavy steel bolted to the block face, the dome on the piston stopped level with the block face, followed the procedure I described and nailed tdc. You need a pointer so you mark the pulley in the right position, then when you remark the pulley half way between the two marks, that is tdc relative to your pointer. Don't move the pointer.
If you don't want to remove the heads, you can insert something through the plug hole to stop the piston before tdc. Best thing I heard suggested is a suitably sized cable tie. Use the big end through the plug hole to stop the piston, and carry on as before.
Trying to measure tdc directly, even with a dti is harder to do than the method above.

The snap on timing light can only be used with a pre prepared tdc mark and pointer. It is good, though as you can measure rpm and ignition advance. You can generate a dizzy curve from it. I bought one second hand and it has proved very useful.

Mart.
 
#17 ·
Using the standard crab dizzy is a good idea (better than the mallory) but interested in why you want to run with out the vacuum brake conected?
What car / diff ratio you useing the vacuum brake when set up properly is a very good setup in a wheighty / small number diff aplication.
The dizzy should still realy be verified for its curve (but even a really worn one would be lots closer then the mallory!) as the stockers were originaly set for bout 18 deg total cus the fuel was crap, 24-26deg total should be aimed at.
Martin
 
#18 ·
Sorry for the hyjack of the thread Keith I guess it is all on topic?
Scooder I like the timing adjustment of the Mallory unit and stops the messing with vacuum brakes also I am hoping to run a small blower and guessed that would effect the system? the car is a '32 roadster with tall tyres but the diff (9" ford) isn't sorted yet.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top