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^^^^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^^^^Quote:
Originally Posted by Plumpcars
If your engine is mild just go with something like .474-.480 lift with around 268-272 degrees duration. Stock valve springs will handle that cam & once its in and tuned you can maybe play with 1.6 rockers on the intake if you feel you want a little more.
IF it's fummie sounds like it's running rich and flooding which is what mine is does.
And because it will not start when stopped it flooded and waiting for the fuel to evaporate before starting.
"RPM was very 'pointy' and this has a wider peak" , what does that mean?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Mark
Yes indeed ^^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^^^^Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Sayers
Sometimes you're better off letting somebody who knows what they're doing do the job!
"RPM was very 'pointy' and this has a wider peak" , what does that mean? ----This might be a clue , let me explain, in very general terms , take a SBC for example, a flat tappet camshaft ( solid) would have a noticably " pointed " profile when compared to a Hydraulic camshaft profile,which would have a "for lack of a better description" a blunter appearance. All this information can easily be confirmed by a Google Images search, now if theres any doubt about which camshaft you actually have then its best to start afresh as has already been mentioned in above posts.Howards SBC camshafts in the USA are less than a hundred Dollars and are as good as you will need for a street car, have a Google.http://www.howardscams.com/index.php...-250-1962-1984 http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-CHEVY-HO...-/330817560909 This is a Skip White AD. on EBay USA, always a good read .
Interesting Tom, thank you. Both the cams are/were for hydraullic lifters. So that confirms that I can't swap for solid lifters! Looks like a good grind.
Steve, Adam & Stitch. This should be good to go as this was the original cam the engine came with. I've not picked it up unknown at a swap meet, or round the back of a breakers!
I have built engines before with no problems and I have not made choices with this re-build, just new shells, rings, pistons and gaskets. Trust me, this is doing my head.
Steve. I missed you post at the bottom of page one! Yer right. I think I have no choice but to get a new cam/cam-kit and drop it in.
Mark you say it fummie when you have run it sound to me like it's flooding or not firing on a cylinder,thats why i asked about plus as this is like the probs i have.
Mark it's doing your head in and this is the point. You do not know what you have and it's stressing you out. To say that a cam is pointy or curvy is pretty meaningless to be honest. Without accurate specs you are guessing at best as to what you have. Spending a bit of money on a cam kit which is in harmony with your engine/car and a weekend fitting it would eliminate hours of speculating over what to do next. Stress gone and an engine that does what you want rather than what the previous owner dictated. You'd be on the road next week instead of missing a season. I seem to remember from other posts that this is a pretty mild build so cam it accordingly. Why did you take the 350 out?
Do you know other important info like compression ratio etc to aid in cam selection. It's important so you end up with a engine working to the best of its ability.
Mark
All I'm saying is if you are rebuilding an engine and the cam (although already used in this engine previously) is an unknown change it. I've refused to build 2 engines for friends because there were no markings on the can to identify it. Summit do very reasonable kits. In the past people have though change the cam for a race spec with no other changes & it'll be a race engine. We both know that's not the case.
If your 100% that everything else in the engine is correct and working either change the cam. Good luck mate.