How to 'dial in' a cam...... - Page 3
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  1. #21
    Exceeded sell by date Plumpcars's Avatar
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    This is the same motor that wouldn't run properly before isn't it?

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  3. #22
    Turbo 4 pot freak 20vT_pop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Mark View Post
    Just for checking purposes why not dti off a pushrod and just bolt a degree wheel to the crank pulley? Rather than stripping the thing down you will know straight away if its a country mile out.

    Bob

    Mark if you get stuck for a Degree wheel and dial gauge with mag base and can't get anything sorted local, let me know and I will post mine to you to borrow if you want.

    John
    My Pop Build thread https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/gar...op-build-32191
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  4. #23
    Official RnS Addict 1stpop's Avatar
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    Mark are they solid lifters ? should be if your degree ing a cam.
    Start from the start engine was ok at 1st
    Why did you change lifters , hydrolic or solid ?
    Did you just remove valley tray and rockers and push rods to change lifters , have you set the lash on the push rods?Sorry if you have gone over this already.
    Dazza

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  6. #24
    Official RnS Addict 1stpop's Avatar
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    We have just done my mopar today and found out all,is ok
    We used a dead stop in number 1 to find tdc and made a pointer up to point at degree wheel
    Wound engine over to find peak,lift inlet and exhaust on number 1 then went 50thou either side of peak lift and worked it out to cam card .
    But we put a solid lifter in the one we were checking as the hydrolic drain back.

  7. #25
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20vT_pop View Post
    Mark if you get stuck for a Degree wheel and dial gauge with mag base and can't get anything sorted local, let me know and I will post mine to you to borrow if you want.

    John
    Thanks John, I'll let you know!

    Yes Steve, this is the same motor with hydraulic followers.

    I changed the followers as I manager to drop the container with them all nicely sorted and in order, so on advice I went for the new followers from an Edelbrock RPM cam kit I had (this cam has a better profile as the RPM was very 'pointy' and this has a wider peak) NOw, maybe I should swap to solid lifters and do the lash the old fashioned way with feeler gauges! THat would overcome that problem!

    Oh. one piece of info I guess I should have included is that after the engine stalls I can't get it running again unless I leave it for a while.......(no idea how short a time it neede though)
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  8. #26
    Official RnS Addict beach57's Avatar
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    What colour are the plugs.

  9. #27
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    Haven't pulled one yet! I'll do that later and let you know.
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  10. #28
    Official RnS Addict beach57's Avatar
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    When mine will not run under 1500-2000 ,its flooded,and fouled a plug and only running on 6 or 7 cyl,any smoke out the back,also only found it not running on all 8 ,was by using a laser temp reader.

  11. #29
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    It's a bit acrid in the garage after it stops! Yeah, it's lumpy too...
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  12. #30
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    Would it not be worth swinging the cam timing a tooth each way first and see if it makes a difference? If it doesn't it might point to it being something else

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