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  1. #11
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    Thanks Neil. I followed David Vizard's method in the book, so it should be right. I'm going to check everything again this morning as well as re-setting the lash a little looser, just to take out the slack (plus a bit). Will check compression as well as it is a new re-build (?) and shoule be good. Spent ages lapping in the valves to get a nice even seal and checked all ring gaps as well.
    Black Pop, I tried that yesterday and didn't even get a backfire! Even if the dizzy was 180 out it would backfire......

    I still recon it might be the coil breaking down......... It's Accell so should be fine.
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

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  3. #12
    Exceeded sell by date Plumpcars's Avatar
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    Firing order.
    Valves, for any given cylinder as Exhaust is opening adjust inlet. As inlet is about to close adjust exhaust. Set to zero lash then 1/2 turn down. Are they new lifters? If so have you wound them down too far?
    Do you actually have a spark? Points or transistorised?
    Timing, 180 out probably will do nothing. Double check firing on no. 1 with left valve cover off and watch inlet valve closing so you know you are on the firing stroke. Both valves then closed at tdc. Set basic timing at about 10btdc.

    ALWAYS talk as if you are looking at the engine from the drivers seat. It gets bloody confusing otherwise!

  4. #13
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    Sorry Steve!!

    They are new lifters so I'm going to slack them off and set them to just take out slack, then go 1/4 turn, as suggested on Tri-five.

    I have the old points dizzy in, as I could not set the static with the electronic. I get a spark to the engine, but sould it be a weak spark getting blown out in the compression? I tried EezyStart and didn't get o pop, or anything!


    Anyone bored, wanting a laugh could come round and watch! Front row seats are cheap!
    Behind The Fox on the Hill at Lower Kingswood................
    Last edited by Mad Mark; 04-03-2012 at 10:11.
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

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  6. #14
    TechnicalTom
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    Just to add to the good advice already offered in above posts, dont use easy start , I would suggest a compression test if you fail to get going this time , that test is an indication that the valves are adjusted somewhere near ,also indicates the camshaft is timed correctly. notice I say indicates LOL. if you have points then a dwell meter would help set the points even at cranking speed , aim for approx.33 degrees dwell . (check again using book figures later on)or better still use the electronic dist.
    I have experienced difficulty starting engines with the distributor loose , so try nipping the clamp bolt on the intake.Double check earths between engine and chassis/battery .Swap the spark plugs as the ones in your engine may be fouled by now from the failed starts , or heat the present spark plugs on the gas ring , use gloves to re fit.Once again you need a good spark at the correct time and good compression , with fuel at 12.5 AFR.upwards .Finally no vacuum leaks. best of luck.

  7. #15
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    Just a thought, what plug gaps should I set?

    Champion RJ12YC plugs with an Accell Super coil, timing at 10-8 deg BTDC.
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  8. #16
    TechnicalTom
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    Quite often the plug gap as they come new in the box will start all but the most specialised competition engines . 35 thou if you have no other figure will start and run fine .Have a google on the plug manufacturer s site for precise details, once again good luck ,
    Last edited by TECHNICALTOM; 04-03-2012 at 10:33.

  9. #17
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    Thanks Tom yer a star!!

    My heads are 397012B, so which type of plug should I be using? I have the Champion RJ12YC with sealing rings, but for the crate motor I had ACDelco R44TS with taper seats which are still perfect.

    So, which should I be using? This is such a steep learning curve.................

    HELP!!
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  10. #18
    TechnicalTom
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    Its a bit too cold over here for my intended engine building session to day so im still reading forums LOL. The best answer I can offer is have a close look at the spark plug thread area in the cylinder head ,even use a magnifieng glass if you have one handy, you will see either the taper or flat seat quite easily .most aftermarket alloy heads are not taper seats in my experience,
    I prefer NGK plugs myself, although I have a set of Champion RJ12YC plugs in an old standard 307 SBC I have here .

  11. #19
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    The flat seal plugs won't fit the crats heads as the undercut is too small. I guess that means I use the seal ring plugs in these heads.

    Oh, I get 80+ psi from the four cylinders I can get to with the compression tester!!
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  12. #20
    Stroker Kustom Jim's Avatar
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    Lightbulb

    My Edelbrock head SBC came with the tapered plugs and they were wrong for it.
    Luckily enough Real Steel worked it out over the phone

    Looks like the heads are spot on
    Chevy Block Head Codes, truck, car

    Dunno if the old heads always took the flat gasketed plugs though.

    Is it possible to get the engine spun over whilst you're pointing a timing light onto marks ?
    Maybe it would at least tell you if it was in the ball park.

    My totally random guess would be, IF it don't stink of fuel after a few turns the idle circuit fuel supply type thing may be awry
    (which may be occuring from a leak somewheres, unplugged takeoff at back of fanimold etc).

    cheers
    Jimbo
    "I'm not going to take this defeatist attitude and listen to all this crap any more from all these people who have nothing except doomsday to predict."
    Carroll Shelby

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