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  1. #11
    Official RnS Addict beach57's Avatar
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    This what is in my Chevy performance engine book.
    Adjusting valves
    Most factory applications recommend that the hyd lifters be adjusted 1 turn down from zero lash,the point where the lifter stops clicking while your adjusting it,
    For maximum effect manufacturers usually recommend an adjustment of only one 1/4 turn .
    The procedure while engine is running is to loosen each adjusting nut until the lifter starts to click. Then tighten until the clicking stops,once the clicking stops slowly tighten nut 1/4 turn more,if you tighten to fast the lifter will not compensate and the engine will run rough or STALL.
    If your adjusting valves in a new engine the procedure is just as simple.
    All you have to do is place 2 fingers on the rocker arms just over the pushrods .
    Rotate the engine slowly untill you feel them settle as far as possible. The rocker arms should be loose at this time.Continue turning the engine until the pushrods begin to rise.
    This means the lifters are off the base circle and they are beginning to move up the clearance ramp.
    Work with 1 valve at a time and use the pushrod movement to determine when the lifter is on the base circle of the cam .Make the adjustment by turning down the adjustment nut slowly.While you are tightening the nut ,grasp the pushrod between your fingers and slowly rotate it back and forth .When you have removed all the slack in system you can feel resistance as you twirl the pushrod .This means you are starting to depress the plunger in the lifter. At this point you go ahead and add your 1/4 turn adjustment and move on to the next valve.
    By presetting the all the valves in this manner you will be able to start the engine and run in the cam without all the clatter that normally comes with the initial fire up .
    The engine will start up and run quietly you can make a back up adjustment after all the parts have become familiar with each other.
    My finger now hurts typing this

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  3. #12
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    Thanks Guys!!

    The timing is just about there, as I marked things whiule pulling the dizzy and re-aligned the marks when I dropped it in. I'll have another go and see what happens!
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  4. #13
    Official RnS Addict beach57's Avatar
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    Any news ?.

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  6. #14
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    Yeah, she ran, but wouldn't go down to tickover but stalled from about 1500 rpm. Took a lot to start and almost 'wound up to it'. The timing was/is out, but I need another pair of hands/feet to keep it running so I can check timing. I only have a crap light but at least I can check total advance!

    Simon gave me some things to check on the carb, like air leaks and tight links, so I'll do that.

    Sounds really great though!!!
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  7. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Mark View Post
    Yeah, she ran, but wouldn't go down to tickover but stalled from about 1500 rpm. Took a lot to start and almost 'wound up to it'. The timing was/is out, but I need another pair of hands/feet to keep it running so I can check timing. I only have a crap light but at least I can check total advance!

    Simon gave me some things to check on the carb, like air leaks and tight links, so I'll do that.

    Sounds really great though!!!
    I don't know for sure having never built a Chevy engine, but whenever I have done other engine rebuilds I set the distributor to a few degrees before tdc and the engine usually runs without stalling, I then usually turn the distributor when the engine is running until it wants to die and back off till it runs smooth again and then let it warm up and do it with a timing light. I can't see why you are having this sort of issue unless the cam is massive lift or you have possibly air leaks or carb issues.
    Someone must know of a basic setting you could try. Glad it is getting there and it sounds good, must give you a bit of a buzz and more enthusiasm to continue.

  8. #16
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    Does sound like air/vacuum leaks mate.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

  9. #17
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    Simon says............

    What is it actually doing other than not ticking over? It stalls at about 1500rpm. Reve well and seems to have gobs of power and spins up a lot faster than the 350 crate!! It takes a bit to start like it is having a run up at it. crank, then hanging on the starter trying to fire and then firing up well, as long as I keep the reves up.

    My first thoughts are that you have your Holley set up on the primary circuit rather than the power valve(idle circuit). OR your secondary throttle plates are sticking open slightly which is very very common. You need to just do a few checks first...
    Confirm you definitely have no air leaks (because that would give you a speeded up idle and then an instant lean condition when tick over is slowed down.
    Next as you look into the bonnet area on the left side of the carb near the back you will see the vacuum diaphragm, follow the rod all the way down to where it connects to the throttle spindle and just give it a little wiggle with the engine running to see if its that.
    If no air leaks are present and the secondary’s are ok, then you need to know how much vacuum you have. use a vac gauge to check full manifold vacuum at idle...It should be about 12 - 15 inches H.g. When you know how much vacuum you have, you then need to know what size power valve is in the Holley. This is located in the metering block just behind the front fuel bowl. Undo the four set screws and remove the float bowl (undo one of the lower ones first and drain the fuel into a small pot or something), then give the metering block a VERY GENTLE tap to free it from the main body. turn it over and you will see the power valve. On it are numbers, read them in a clockwise way....so 4.....5 would be 4.5 or 8..........0 would be 8.0. To know the correct one you need you divide your vacuum reading in half. So if you have 10 inches H.g then you need a 5 power valve or if you have 15 inches H.g you would need a 7.5 or 8.0. I re-built the carb after the first fiasco and ended up with a standard power valve, from the info Simon gave from the reading taken. I guess it can have all changed!??
    When you have the correct size power valve it will want to sit on idle quite naturally when the throttle plates are set correct. I bloody hope so!!
    I wont give you too much to work through for now, will just see how you get on with that bit.
    Hopefully its just something simple.
    let me know how you get on. All I did was to take the carb off the running crate motor and put it on the shelf, then with the 327 fitted I re-mounted the carb again. Simon (Bless him) set it up on the crate for me so it should be fine. ON Monday I'll have a look and do the checks Si has suggested, but it looked OK.......
    Last edited by Mad Mark; 27-04-2013 at 16:12.
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  10. #18
    Supercharged 461 cu in prostreet70gto's Avatar
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    Just going on what you have put on there mark id also say that it could just be the needle valve and seats are staying shut becuase its been sitting on the shelf. give the floats a little tap with a spanner edge just on the adjusting nuts in the centre of the bowls. This sometimes sorts them out, i have had many a holley stick on me, even fair new ones. In fact the one on the truck did it outside vinces house a while back after i had just that day re fitted it.....it happens to us all. and its a common thing with todays fuels.

    Fuel starts to deminish in just 30 days when left in to stand. and it turns to SHALIAC or nail varnish for want of a better description sticks the float needle valves so easy, which would explain that hard starting.....struggling for fuel. But dont explain the over reving. Which is why i thought maybe you have either more or less vac than the other engine as this one is cammed quite a bit more. So every chance its now the wrong one in there again. But a vacuum reading will give you the answer to that one.

    However, having the secondary plates open too far ( like a couple of mm) would cause it to be hard to start because it would be too lean, but when it does start it would then rev high (1500 - 2000RPM) because of the extra air going in there.....an in carb air leak if you like and its something you could easily overlook. sounds very much like what you are having.
    One word can say so much.....BLOWN

  11. #19
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    Sorry, I haven't explained it clearly enough! I have to hold the revs up at 1500-2000 or it stalls. I doesn't get up there on it's own. The fuel in the tank is only two weeks old and she last ran when I put the fuel in.
    I'll have a look later today (once the wife is up, or it'll get me a knife in the ribs!) and let you know. Can't think of an air leak as it's all the same plumbing that came off the old engine, but I'll check! Flange faces cleaned and carb seated prior to putting on the washers and nuts. All manifold holes blanked and I've taken off the PCV line as I thought that may have been allowing too much re-circulated air back into the top of the plenum from the rockers. Catch can re-deployed!
    I'll get out my rubber hammer I bought at Wheels Day last year after the boil, to release the needle valves, to check the needle valves!(?)
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  12. #20
    Official RnS Addict beach57's Avatar
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    What i end up doing is unscrewing the bowls letting the fuel out and tap it then bolt them back up,is the PCV valve working are def running on 8 ,have you a lazer temp reader as this is a god send for checking miss fires and timing.Mine would stall below as it was running on 6,7 cyls,check plugs to check colour.Seems as if you are having as much fun as me due to not running it regularly.

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