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  1. #21
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    mygasser is online now
    with it running (above the stalling speed) spray wd40 around the carb gaskets or anywhere there could be a leak. if the revs pick up there is a leak.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

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  3. #22
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    On my 302 I had a leak but it was all four cylinders to manifold and it was on the valley side. It was pretty evident at speed as I had a blue haze out of the right exhaust bank. The leak started after a a big backfirethrough the carb whilst setting up timing. For sure it must have been a weak joint anyways. Just wondering have you checkedinlet manifold bolt torque?

  4. #23
    Official RnS Addict beach57's Avatar
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    Any news mark ?

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  6. #24
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    Hi Paul, I managed to get some time yesterday to play again.

    I checked everything for leaks and missed vac ports.

    I re-checked the static ignition timing as best I can with the pertronix in, by eye alignment, and managed to get it to start, again, but it took time to 'build up' to running and sounds great over 2000 rpm, with the gear drive, but as soon as I let it drop revs it stalls and sometimes burps back through the carb. I did play with the timing a little and got it to run up better, but still won't come down to tickover. After running I touched the headers and found all cylinders seem to be firing as they were all hot, some a little hotter than others, so there may be other issues. I probably need to do a compression check again, but it's a ******* with the headers on and the plugs are a sod to get to as well.

    I have an odd feeling that the cam may still be out, but to check it I need a degree wheel, DTI and mag base, but ATM, as I'm STILL out of work I can't afford to buy them. I did put a vac gauge on it and it's only producing 10-12 and should be 15-20. I'm getting to the point where I'm thinking of buying a new cam as I have no info on the one in there and no-one seems to know what I have, but that'll have to wait until I'm back working.

    Looks like I'll miss the season this year. Oh well.
    Last edited by Mad Mark; 06-05-2013 at 06:11.
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  7. #25
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    hi mark, when you said it takes time to 'build up to running' when starting a bulb went on. are the tappets too tight holding the valves slightly open? had this before myself and checked everything including cam timing (long job) before i found the culprit. wouldn't tickover, made my eyes sting in my garage, spitting back etc. may be worth checking?
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

  8. #26
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    I have re-set the tappets very carefully as I had them too tight before. I get the same as that and I did change the followers way back and I'm also wondering if they aren't matched to the cam amd springs?
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  9. #27
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    Now I have the DTI and mag base, just waiting for the degree wheel and I'll get some info up here.
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  10. #28
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    Good luck keep us posted

  11. #29
    Full Bloody Rebel! Mad Mark's Avatar
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    Thanks! I'm going to need it! Was going to get to the garage yesterday, but tiredness took over............


















    .....it's an age thing!
    If I wasn't meant to go that fast, the pedal would only go half way!

  12. #30
    Official RnS Addict beach57's Avatar
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    Hi mark are the push rods and rockers being used from this engine when it ran.

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