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  1. #11
    Official RnS Addict cptpugwash's Avatar
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    Have you tried the stall rpm since you got the car back, and compared it to before

    68cc is a larger combustion chamber volume so will lower the comp ratio.
    Last edited by cptpugwash; 12-10-2017 at 20:44.

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    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie TheWebDesignCompany's Avatar
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    so if I try advancing the timing until it pings and then dial it back a touch that should be better?

    When I got it back it was running quite hot and didnt have the power I was expecting, I had read that the timing can cause it to run hot,
    and also reduce power, so I tried adjusting the timing and it is now running way cooler, but it still gutless.

    If it is just a mater of advancing or retarding the timing until I get the power back I can do that myself without paying £000's for the rolling road.
    Last edited by TheWebDesignCompany; 12-10-2017 at 20:48.

  4. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cptpugwash View Post
    Have you tried the stall rpm since you got the car back, and compared it to before

    68cc is a larger combustion chamber volume so will lower the comp ratio.
    I don't know what that entails, can you explain?

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  6. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheWebDesignCompany View Post
    so if I try advancing the timing until it pings and then dial it back a touch that should be better?
    When I got to back it was running quite hot and didnt have the power I was expecting, I read about the timing causing it to run hot, and reduce power so I tried adjusting the timing and it is now running way cooler, but it still gutless.

    If it is just a mater of advancing or retarding the timing until I get the power back I can do that myself without paying £000's for the rolling road.
    No, Set the ignition timing to a sensible level for your engine/application, with a timing light. Dont be guessing and also check the dizzy/advance curve is doing what it should be doing when you rev it.

    After that baseline is set and function of the dizzy confirmed as being good then maybe you could tinker with it a bit.

  7. #15
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie TheWebDesignCompany's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevieturbo View Post
    No, Set the ignition timing to a sensible level for your engine/application, with a timing light. Dont be guessing and also check the dizzy/advance curve is doing what it should be doing when you rev it.

    After that baseline is set and function of the dizzy confirmed as being good then maybe you could tinker with it a bit.

    Ive got a timing light but I don't have a clue about dizzy curve or vacuum settings. I just know how to adjust the distributor to advance or retard the timing...

  8. #16
    Official RnS Addict cptpugwash's Avatar
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    Just have to put your foot on the brake hard as you can in drive, and rev the engine, if it only revs to 1000rpm or so itll be a low stall converter. Was just thinking it may be a way to check converters as you mentioned about being worried it may have been changed.
    Last edited by cptpugwash; 12-10-2017 at 21:04.

  9. #17
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    Reference my earlier post the better info makes more sense regarding the cr etc, there must be someone close to you who can take a look without it costing you an arm and a leg, the important thing here is to check the basics are right, timing, fuelling etc, the spring curves could be an issue but I think that it's more fundamental than that, are there new plugs fitted? Same type, different? What ignition advance mech or vac? Anything changed in the fuel supply? check the electrics, exhaust system, does it rev cleanly and crisply? you get the idea, I am in South Wales so a little far out for me. Dave

  10. #18
    Carburation 'sucks' Roscobbc's Avatar
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    If you have a 'dial back' timing light you can plot the ignition curve yourself. Simply raise the engine speed to a specific rpm (say 1000, 1200, 1500, 1750, 2000 etc) using the throttle stop and use the dial-back facility to read and record it at the rpm breaks. Others on here will know the best 'curve' for the engine once you give over details of cam spec's, carb/inlet tpye, vehicle type/weight, rear-end ratio etc. An engine that is overheating can be caused by many things but it won't be ignition that is too advanced - a symptom of extremely over advanced timing is an engine that is 'flat as a kippers tit' with no pick-up - if retarded look for red hot exhaust manifolds.

  11. #19
    Official RnS Addict cptpugwash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by draguar View Post
    Or You said about lifters but did he replace the push rods as some aluminium heads require longer ones so your valves might not be opening properly?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Think this may be worth a first port of call

  12. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roscobbc View Post
    If you have a 'dial back' timing light you can plot the ignition curve yourself. Simply raise the engine speed to a specific rpm (say 1000, 1200, 1500, 1750, 2000 etc) using the throttle stop and use the dial-back facility to read and record it at the rpm breaks. Others on here will know the best 'curve' for the engine once you give over details of cam spec's, carb/inlet tpye, vehicle type/weight, rear-end ratio etc. An engine that is overheating can be caused by many things but it won't be ignition that is too advanced - a symptom of extremely over advanced timing is an engine that is 'flat as a kippers tit' with no pick-up - if retarded look for red hot exhaust manifolds.
    I think I've just got a basic timing light, don't think there is a dial back feature, and if there is I wouldn't know how to use it, plus I don't have a rev counter fitted. Sounds like I could do with one...
    Are they easy to fit, could I do it myself?

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