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  1. #121
    Stroker Kustom Jim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheWebDesignCompany View Post
    Thank you Custom Jim, that is really helpful. (Have you worked with people who have autism before? I understood all of your post...)
    The studs were taken from my old heads and so were the rocker arms and the pushrods.

    Those valve guides look identical to the ones that I now have, my old heads didnt have guide plates at all.
    Hi,

    as an aside I have worked in adult social care a few years now and have nvq's coming out me ears it does instill, if you want it, the ability to listen and communicate. It's transformed me completely (despite my keyboard moans on here LOL).

    Thanks for putting up the pics. You say the rockers have been reused and the old heads did not have guide plates which could suggest they are the self aligning ones which can give you problems. You'll have to remove one and have a proper look.

    MInd you I see good stuff in your photos. imo

    The heads are held down using ARP studs and nuts (I can see ARP in their tops).





    This block has the studs and allows you to drop the heads straight on. And crucially when fastening down it is with hardened nuts on the top of the heads.
    The original method was to use long bolts - which scare me as they are highly torqued in to an old cast iron block and some actually go into coolant passages so you have to apply sealant - a real faff on. Studs you fit and forget and racers use them so it must be good!!! I did not have enough room in my car otherwise I would swap my old bolts out asap!



    Thought I'd share this stuff as it is interesting engineering - to me. lol Again apologies if you are aware of this malarky.
    This is the basic valve train set up. Cam at the bottom, cushioned on to the oil filled follower (lifters).
    Pushrods take the lift up to the rocker which then push the valve down



    Simpler diagram



    Gotta love followers as they get pumped with oil and with the spring inside allow a fair bit of cushioning.
    Illiminating the tappet noise found on other setups.



    This fascinates me, the hole in the side is where the oil gets fed in to the follower, it then goes up the push rod, out the top of the rockers and flows down to valve tip getting splattered everywhere too. Genius



    I have these roller rockers which just roll on the valve tip but some say there is such little movement they are pointless and IF getting serious with an engine you need the ones below where they have a roller bearing in the middle where more rotation happens.



    Getting back to the adjustment I tried all the methods, some critics would say a stronger hand can turn the pushrods easier so it is only approximate when we all find the pinch point from which to adjust it down the last 3/4 of a turn.

    But hey! Remember there is a cushioned area within the follower so getting really bogged down in the exact science is pointless. IMO

    Cheers
    Jimbo

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  3. #122
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie TheWebDesignCompany's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mygasser View Post
    just as the exhaust valve starts to open adjust the inlet rocker on that cylinder. just as the inlet valve closes adjust the exhaust rocker. that will work on any 4 stroke engine. neil.
    Can I just clarify, that when I look at the pairs of rocker arms I have to wait until one is all the way down (pushing down on the valve spring) and then adjust the pushrod and rocker on the one next to it, then get that one all the way down and do the one next to that etc...?

    To move them I need to put a socket set on the bolt or whatever it is called in the middle of where the mechanical fan would be if there was one on there, and turn that?
    ( I hope to pop down this afternoon and try to do them...)

  4. #123
    Stroker Kustom Jim's Avatar
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    Hi,

    here's where you rotate the engine from...



    There's a bolt in the middle, something like 5/8". Remove all spark plugs or you will fight the compression, gearstick neutral. Go clockwise, I think.

    With both rockers off, you can watch all valves moving - I scribble down a diagram and tick off each one.
    If you want to be methodical you could just follow one cylinder after the other, but for speed you can jump to other rockers IF you watch them moving.
    Otherwise you end up rotating the engine a lifetime.

    Valve opening and closing can overlap a little so yes I think it best to make sure valve is well open!
    Last edited by Kustom Jim; 11-08-2018 at 12:50.

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  6. #124
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    I think you "may" get lost in setting the lifter preload here.
    This is the easy, but time consuming way.
    Send the valves one at a time to the fully open position (down), from there, turn the engine one revolution *360 by hand and set THAT valve, move on doing that till all 16 are done.
    Its a foolproof way, but takes twice as long to do.

  7. #125
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie TheWebDesignCompany's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kustom Jim View Post
    Hi,

    here's where you rotate the engine from...




    There's a bolt in the middle, something like 5/8". Remove all spark plugs or you will fight the compression, gearstick neutral. Go clockwise, I think.

    With both rockers off, you can watch all valves moving - I scribble down a diagram and tick off each one.
    If you want to be methodical you could just follow one cylinder after the other, but for speed you can jump to other rockers IF you watch them moving.
    Otherwise you end up rotating the engine a lifetime.

    Valve opening and closing can overlap a little so yes I think it best to make sure valve is well open!


    Great thank you.

    If the Rocker arms have those lines sticking out each side of the underside then they are self aligning ones and will need to be replaced?
    If that is the case I should buy 1.5 roller tip rocker arms?

  8. #126
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie TheWebDesignCompany's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68roadrunner View Post
    I think you "may" get lost in setting the lifter preload here.
    This is the easy, but time consuming way.
    Send the valves one at a time to the fully open position (down), from there, turn the engine one revolution *360 by hand and set THAT valve, move on doing that till all 16 are done.
    Its a foolproof way, but takes twice as long to do.
    Perfect, I don't mind time consuming as long as I can get it right...
    Thank you

  9. #127
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    Does it matter which way up I put the pushrods in?
    I was hoping they might have an arrow on them, but they don't , it just says "7693 Comp Cams Magnum".
    Should I put them with the numbers end going down in to the lifter? or the other way up?

  10. #128
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    Cool!, right, when you get to that point when its been turned *360 the valve will be completely closed, turn the adjuster nut till the pushrod JUST touches the rocker arm by turning it with your fingers for the "feel", then turn the adjuster nut about 3/4 of a turn to set the preload on the lifter which will be around 20-40 thou, this is the working parameter of a hyd lifter...then start with the next valve
    This would be to just get some sort of a run out of it, I would then reset the whole lot to spec after running for 20mins, it may also rattle like fk after / during running till they are reset and all the air is bled out of the lifters.

  11. #129
    Official RnS Addict 35kid's Avatar
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    it doesn't matter what way they go in.

  12. #130
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    Pushrods can go anywhere in this application either way up, its only the lifters that HAVE to go back onto the same cam lobe if its been run.

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