Measuring +100 Pushrods? - Page 19
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  1. #181
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    WHAT..........what.........what.....what........what......

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    68roadrunner is offline
    Talk about going round in circles LOL.

  4. #183
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35kid View Post
    I would disagree with that Neil , most aftermarket timing sets aren't adjustable unless you start spending silly money on them, nearly everything under £100 has no adjustment in it. As you say though the only way to know for sure is to pull the timing cover.
    no, real steel for example show a budget street roller set at £30.55 with 3 keyways on the crank sprocket and a billet street roller set roller set at £93.23 with 9 keyways. they're not 'true' roller sets but it's not a race car so they're both just fine and allow advancing/retarding the cam timing. also both cloyes sets so decent quality.
    cheers, neil.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

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  6. #184
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    It's a chevy so the sump would have to come off to get the timing cover off - so quite a big job to check. I'd not bother and look at the simpler stuff first.
    sounds like a lot of the simple stuff has been checked mate. still compression and vacuum to check first though. you can remove the timing cover with the sump in situ, but you'd need to replace the rubber timing cover to sump seal with silicon for reassembly just like when using silicon at the front and back of an inlet manifold instead of the rubber/cork gaskets. i've done this several times in the past and never had a leak.
    cheers, neil.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

  7. #185
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie TheWebDesignCompany's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    It's a chevy so the sump would have to come off to get the timing cover off - so quite a big job to check. I'd not bother and look at the simpler stuff first.
    Thanks for the advice, I hope to have a pushrod and rocker arm to put the engine back together with soon. (someone has offered to send them to me, and I'm waiting to hear the postage costs)

    Once it is back up I will be able to run the compression tests etc

  8. #186
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    3 rocker arms and 3 pushrods sent out today mate. i'll let you know the postage cost when i do next week.
    neil.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

  9. #187
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    It's only funny till someone gets hurt..........then it's friggin' hilarious

  10. #188
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie TheWebDesignCompany's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mygasser View Post
    3 rocker arms and 3 pushrods sent out today mate. i'll let you know the postage cost when i do next week.
    neil.
    Thank you, I only needed one of each, but it is handy to have spares.
    Thanks again.

  11. #189
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie TheWebDesignCompany's Avatar
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    Right, I finally managed to get some work done on the car today.
    I found that all the pushrods were chewed up from rubbing against the valve guides.
    Also many of the rocker arms were rattling loose, and some of the pushrods were not seated in the lifters they had jumped out.

    So they were all removed, a mate came over and helped me and we stripped off the rocker arms
    and pushrods and fitted the new hardened +100 pushrods and refitted the original 1.5 ratio rocker arms, plus the one I was sent by mygasser.

    They were all done following the

    1 - 8 - 4 - 3
    6 - 5 - 7 - 2

    method

    when piston 1 exhaust and valve rods are at rocking point piston 6 rods and rocker arms were adjusted etc...

    then when that was all done, we did the compression test with the results as follows:

    Piston 1 = 130
    Piston 2 = 140
    Piston 3 = 130
    Piston 4 = 135
    Piston 5 = 160
    Piston 6 = 130
    Piston 7 = 140
    Piston 8 = 120

    So some degree of variation there, but a mechanic told me that with the age of engine I have thats pretty good and it will still run fine.
    Finally we fire it up and tested it. The timing was slightly advanced from what it was previously, and was pinking on a test run, so we retarded it slightly,
    at three quarter throttle it started pinking again, so we retarded it a tiny bit more. It still doesnt have the same power that it once did, but it is much much better than it was.

    I have to admit that the vast majority of the work was done by my mate, I would never have managed it without his help.

    The next thing to do it an oil change and flush the engine then put new oil in and the zink engine break in additive that I was sent by comp cams.

    I tried to fit the rev counter, but I had bought a dash mounted one and not a surface mounted one and the wires were not long enough to reach, so that is a job for another time now...
    Last edited by TheWebDesignCompany; 08-09-2018 at 20:36.

  12. #190
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie TheWebDesignCompany's Avatar
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    The compression test was run dry on a cold engine and the engine was turned over twice for each cylinder, with the throttle left untouched.
    I thought I should mention that as I've read different things about putting oil in the cylinders for a wet test and running the test with the engine warmed up and that you are supposed to turn the engine over 4 times for each cylinder. I didnt know any of that when I ran the test. So that might effect my readings?

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