Measuring +100 Pushrods? - Page 4
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  1. #31
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    so not only are the valves .100 longer but the head gaskets are however many 'thou' thicker too. so the pushrods may need to be even longer than the .100 extra. if you fit a thinner gasket than before and also skim the new heads you may well be able to use the stock pushrods and regain the lost compression by reducing chamber size.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.
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  3. #32
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    I have 'camel Hump' heads on mine, 64cc chambers. Valves are 1.92 and 1.60 which for a street engine is plenty. I also have flat top pistons to keep compression down as 9.5:1 is about as far as you want to go on the street to avoid detonation unless you run it on super unleaded all the time.

    Do you know what your pistons look like? do you have any photos of it with the heads off?

    You REALLY need to do what I said in an earlier post with the marker pen on the valve stem, this will at least answer one question with 100% accuracy, the rest at present is guesswork by all of us.

    This shows the marks on the valve stems - wear in this photo is not in centre of valve stem so I had to alter length to achieve correct geometry.
    IMG_0945.JPG

    This is the flat top piston (used to be domed ones)
    IMG_0930.JPG

    64cc head.
    IMG_0943.JPG
    Last edited by blackpopracing; 01-08-2018 at 22:12.
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  4. #33
    Got salt Briz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68roadrunner View Post
    I know that, I meant is that the correct thing to do.
    I'm not saying you are wrong about anything, i'm asking is that how its done professionally .
    Bloody context "thing" is hard on forums LOL.
    Absolutely. If the rocker assy is .100" further up the stud from stock....what does it matter? Its a good way of accommodating extra valve lift.
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  6. #34
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie TheWebDesignCompany's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    I have 'camel Hump' heads on mine, 64cc chambers. Valves are 1.92 and 1.60 which for a street engine is plenty. I also have flat top pistons to keep compression down as 9.5:1 is about as far as you want to go on the street to avoid detonation unless you run it on super unleaded all the time.

    Do you know what your pistons look like? do you have any photos of it with the heads off?

    Yes, I have a photo of the piston numbers

    piston.jpg
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  7. #35
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie TheWebDesignCompany's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mygasser View Post
    so not only are the valves .100 longer but the head gaskets are however many 'thou' thicker too. so the pushrods may need to be even longer than the .100 extra. if you fit a thinner gasket than before and also skim the new heads you may well be able to use the stock pushrods and regain the lost compression by reducing chamber size.
    Ok so that is possible, I was wondering, how much could I skim?

    Would it be enough to reduce the combustion chamber down to 64cc or even 62cc?
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  8. #36
    Exceeded sell by date Plumpcars's Avatar
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    What is the timing set to? Has the curve been quickened with lighter springs in the distributor?
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  9. #37
    I'm Not Jed Clampett stueeee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheWebDesignCompany View Post
    Yes, I have a photo of the piston numbers

    piston.jpg
    With pop ups on your pistons, there may be less than before, but lack of compression is hardly going to be your problem; even with a 68cc chamber and thick gasket. With small block Ford or Chevy, the heads cannot be skimmed by any significant amount without running into the inlet valve seat. Look at Blackpopracing's photo above and you can see the issue. When I have skimmed these heads, I tilt them against the milling machine table by about .020" so that most of the metal is coming off the deep side of the combustion chamber -.020" of tilt across the face is the maximum you can tilt the heads before needing to re-machine the inlet manifold faces afterwards .
    Stuart.
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  10. #38
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    I used to have the same pop up pistons in mine, but with the smaller chambered heads it's too much compression and will lead to detonation. I went to flat top pistons to cure this.
    What you have should be ok as you need a bigger head chamber to cope with the pop up pistons.

    As your new cam is pretty close to the old one the power issues are probably elsewhere.

    You need to be methodical,

    1, check pushrod length as I have advised.
    2, check timing.
    3, check carb/mixture settings.
    4, check the advance curve in the distributor also check if the vacuum advance is working or not.
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  12. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briz View Post
    Absolutely. If the rocker assy is .100" further up the stud from stock....what does it matter? Its a good way of accommodating extra valve lift.

    I would want ALL his engine stuff in front of me to see just whats going on with it, I would not be guessing anything, there are just too many possibilities for something to be wrong clearance wise IMO.
    Head change, pop up pistons, cam change, pushrod change, its all over the place.
    ....put a 360 MOPAR in it and make some real power,
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  14. #40
    Official RnS Addict 35kid's Avatar
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    what is the timing set to? I wonder if its advanced too much?
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