Micro blistering :( - Page 3
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  1. #21
    Official RnS Addict bigjob's Avatar
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    Guys,can i suggest when getting quotes for paint ,insist on viewing the premises,and look and ask to see the dryer unit,this will be a sizeable 2' x3' unit after the compressor in the air ring ,if they show you water traps(a milkbottle sized affair,with a pressure guage on top and they may have 4-6 of them),walk away and take you pride and joy else where,cause you will at some point in time get blistering,you'd be amazed how many b/shops try and wing it in this area !!,Bry
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  3. #22
    www.53catalina.co.uk 53catalina's Avatar
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    Out of interest (as I dont know), do these problems occur if the car is painted in an Oven, or is it only if the car is painted in atmospheric conditions?

  4. #23
    Official RnS Addict bigjob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 53catalina View Post
    Out of interest (as I dont know), do these problems occur if the car is painted in an Oven, or is it only if the car is painted in atmospheric conditions?
    Makes no difference,moisture in air lines,from the compressor, is introduced to the substrate via the spray gun,a heated booth may help reduce/eleiviate the moisture that may present in the undercoats,due to wet flatting as apposed to dry flatting or it been left out in the open atmosphere,but it would be impossible to quantify how long ,and when you had left in a heated booth long enough, prior to appyling the top coats,and in reality vehicles are put in booths just long enough to paint and bake them,they are then chucked straight out and the next job goes in !,Bry
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  6. #24
    Full Time Metal Junkie ProMetalShop's Avatar
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    Bry , That is excellent advice, and if you put cost as one of your decisions add what it will be to strip and repaint and it will most likely be more. Also falling back on Bry's advise will help if there price is high dose not mean they are equipped with all the necessary drying equipment. Our lines in my old shop ran separate and threw a Con-Air system and was delivered from a small 7 hp compressor that it's only job was to feed the spray booth, and that was not a guarantee that nothing would go wrong either.
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  7. #25
    longroof society member yellacar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigjob View Post
    Guys,can i suggest when getting quotes for paint ,insist on viewing the premises,and look and ask to see the dryer unit,this will be a sizeable 2' x3' unit after the compressor in the air ring ,if they show you water traps(a milkbottle sized affair,with a pressure guage on top and they may have 4-6 of them),walk away and take you pride and joy else where,cause you will at some point in time get blistering,you'd be amazed how many b/shops try and wing it in this area !!,Bry
    Exelent advice Bry,and bang on the button, (water in the air line system) the only thing I would add to it is check if they have an Hydrovane type compressor as they seem not to create as much water as piston type.

    Cheers Ian

  8. #26
    Official RnS Addict beach57's Avatar
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    What I was told and do is to leave the car after paint for at least a couple of months before waxing or polishing as that seals in the moisture.

  9. #27
    Official RnS Addict bigjob's Avatar
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    Paul who ever told you that was truly talking out of their arse,Bry
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  10. #28
    fixin your car loon's Avatar
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    i have been in the body trade for a long time and from experiance micro blistering is caused by

    1, NOT useing an acid etch primer after bare metaling the panel.
    2, poor quality degreaser.
    3, solvent trap, when aplying the next coat before the last one was dry enough.
    4, useing car covers that are outside getting hot, cold and wet.

    plus what's with all this talk about water in the paint all large and soon to be ALL bodyshops are using WATER base products so it doesn't mater what dryers and water traps you'v got someone will be puting water directly onto you car

  11. #29
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    Lots of info and advice about "micro blistering" on this thread. I read it and couldn't see where the type of paint was mentioned,so- was if celly?.

    All paint sytems are permable to moisture, the moisture or rain, will move in and out of a corrctly applied paint film all the time, usually with no problem. However, when their is some intercoat adhesion weakness, between, metal, primer, or colour or even between the colour coats, there is potential for the moisture to collect and cause blisters by expanding the paint film. Sometimes these blisters will disappear, sometimes not, there are too many
    (human) variables to provide a concise answer. Even the use on "non bloom celly thinners " in the wrong circumstances could cause a problem. This is a reason when sometimes only part of a car will show symptoms, something different has been done to that part of the car.

    Covers should not cause a problem to a properly applied paint system, common sense not to cover a wet car though.

    But, if you are experiencing blistering, there is no easy cure except start again and make sure that ALL parts of the paint process are done correctly, ie clean steel, correct thickness of primer, clean water, if wet flatting , thorough rinsing, correct flash off, no touching surfaces with greasy hands, no moisture in air line. I mentioned earlier if celly was used, celly IS DEFINATLY more susceptible to blistering than a modern 2 pack , with water-borne basecoat/2K clear system, basicly cause celly is technically c**p

  12. #30
    cw motors paint and body little woody's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigjob View Post
    Micro blistering is moisture trapped in between paint coats,usually at the time of the paint being applied,ie water in airlines,if its in there a car cover will accelerate the apperance of the blisters,if the paint system is moisture free you will never get the problem-ever !,Bry
    this man is correct

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