Modifing rover v8 su carb to take 4 barrel carb
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  1. #1
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    Modifing rover v8 su carb to take 4 barrel carb

    Could any one who has done this, let me know how the feeds to each cylinder inside the manifold where modded.i have managed to find diagrams for 4 different ways to set up the feeds but no info on how they performed. Photos would be a great help . Also how did it compare on the road with a off the shelf 4 barrel manifold. Thanks rat ted

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    Official RnS Addict andycamaro's Avatar
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    surely you would buy a manifold for the 4bbl carb rather than try to modify the original 2 su carb manifold.

    have seen ofenhouser? intake manifolds for 4bbl carb setups on the bay and i believe this should be the way to go.

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    we used one last year on our rover v8, but we bought it ready modified, it really looked like the su mounts had literally been machined off flat, and the alloy 4 barrel mount welded on, it did look fairly restricted, but must say ran spot on with a 390 vac sec holley,
    its a cheap way to get a big carb on but if i did it again i go straight for the edelbrock manifold
    i want cubic inches! lots of em!!

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    In my little knowledge of the ally V8, I have often herd that the stock manifold machined flat and 4bbl mount welded on as above, works really well and know of a bloke that had a modified one on his, and "up graded" to an Offy, After a month or so the Offy was sold on and the modified stock one was back on. The stocker and 4bbl pulled lots cleaner and was more punchy at low revs, the Offy was not as punchy down the bottom but no better at the top either. The Edelbrock is better than the Offy all over, and better than the modified stocker up top.
    Martin.

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    I have a Rover manifold machined and reworked on a 3.9 engined Stag- it works very well ,not restrictive at all.

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    Official RnS Addict rodster's Avatar
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    Back in the 80s thats what me an me brother did with our pops, if memory serves me right we used the p6 manifold, chopped off the main top then have em machined down to a suitable hieght our were inline with the crank, from memory what you are left with is two chambers and a water jacket in the middle, the water jacket needs welding up first then get yourself a suitable lump of alloy and get it shaped drill tapped etc for your carb and weld the sucker on, square. job done.
    Oh yeh we had ro34 blowers on ours with no problems at all, had a look for some pics but cant find any suitable, oh and make sure you get a pro to do the welding as the alloy is often contaminated and not easy to weld.

    Bill

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    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    Unless your engine is highly modified stick with the SU's, the SU's although simple are far better.
    Clean up the area before the bridge & flow the butter flys- good increase with CFM is possible.
    You could also use Jag 2" SU carbs, they have no chokes but that can be fixed...

  10. #8
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    thanks for the reply.can you remember if it had a deviding plate in it (front to back) or was it just a large hole under the carb.

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    Official RnS Addict rodster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rat ted View Post
    thanks for the reply.can you remember if it had a deviding plate in it (front to back) or was it just a large hole under the carb.
    memory aint that good im afraid

  12. #10
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    nor is mine , what was the question. thanks

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