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  1. #11
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    Ther is also a physics based limit on how far your u/js will go before creating ind. In my min dteh best solution here is to firstly ensure you can remove the pitman arm and reposition through 90' . The redrill the box mounting plate to lay the steering wheel to shaft just above teh chassis rail.

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  3. #12
    Official RnS Addict 28Chevy's Avatar
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    eKapri is correct in every thing he said, I saw that Rover 16 and thought that's going to be a pig to drive.

    My experience of preventing bump steer comes from building off road competition frames with two foot or more of axle travel, the first one was almost un-driveable, had to wear work gloves to stop my my palms burning!

    Getting a bump steer free ride was a case of following simple rules and understanding arcs, all my builds after that drove perfectly.

    Nice project :-)

    Bernard
    Last edited by 28Chevy; 12-01-2017 at 14:25.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    Ther is also a physics based limit on how far your u/js will go before creating ind. In my min dteh best solution here is to firstly ensure you can remove the pitman arm and reposition through 90' . The redrill the box mounting plate to lay the steering wheel to shaft just above teh chassis rail.
    That's exactly what I just pm'd Paul. Great minds think alike ehy
    I'm not the best welder in the world.... but I'm in the top 5!

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  6. #14
    Official RnS Addict heavychevy's Avatar
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    Would making the steering linkage into two parts work? Fit an idler where the original pitman arm is and a secondary linkage back to the repositioned box.

  7. #15
    Official RnS Addict brading's Avatar
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    I was thinking along the same lines heavychevy but you beat me to it. Was just doing this drawing. Think it would keep the steering geometry as original.


  8. #16
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    Hi all

    Thanks for excellent ideas been and had a look .....

    So swap spring shackle from back to front ?

    Front mount :-



    rear mount :-



    Again rivet mountings so not really do able ?

    use idler arm(s) and reposition steering box ?

    Path from new position to old steering arm obstructed by shock absorber ?



    So to recap.

    Moving steering box because :-

    a) aesthetically in ' wrong place '

    b) to reach from end of steering column to old steering box position needs a steering coupling like this :-



    This item is on Ebay from a LDV [ mine is a Freight Rover that did not have one of these ] if the splines are the same as my existing steering column AND my steering box I could cut it and sleeve it as the UJ's need to be approx 135 cm apart to reach the cockpit !
    I assume this will mean finding a tube that I can put inside some pillar block style bearings , maybe 3 over that length ?

    This will leave steering box and majority of column 'outside' conventional bonnet sides - just another challenge maybe ?

    Obviously safety and predictable handling come before aesthetics.

    regards Paul
    Last edited by stormbird; 12-01-2017 at 16:03.

  9. #17
    Official RnS Addict 28Chevy's Avatar
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    Getting things into perspective may help.

    A lot of pre-war cars had steering with the box behind the swinging shackle, my Chevy is like that but the link is shorter, it has bump steer when hitting a pot hole, speed bump or unevenness in the road.

    It's just how things where back then when speeds where much slower and there was room on the road to wander!

    However for most of the time it's fine as the slack in the steering box (about an inch at the steering wheel rim) takes out any kickback I would otherwise feel.

    What you're doing with a longer link would worsen the effect beyond that which you might find acceptable even if you are used to pre-war standards, a driver who has only driven modern rack steered cars would find it awful.

    Adding a power steering box would act as a damper, and as suggested a shorter link with an idler may help.

    Ideally you would be better to leave the box as original (rotating it as suggested would help) as the arcs are better and avoid any 8 point probs, but even the original arcs won't be perfect at every position, it's all a compromise after all.

    PS. early jeeps had the swinging shackle at the front, presumably because the bump steer was just too much due to the extreme axle travel off road.

    Bernard
    Last edited by 28Chevy; 12-01-2017 at 17:00.
    Whirrr whirrr chuff chuff de chuff........chuff......BRUMMMM!

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  10. #18
    Official RnS Addict brading's Avatar
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    As the tie rods do not need ball joints at the idler arm ends just bearings thought this might work. Obviously you would have to check on tyre clearance on lock.


  11. #19
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    bernard & brading

    thanks for your input much appreciated

    think the next thing to do is mock-up a cockpit with some OSB board and the seats I hope to use to see where the steering column ends up and get one of those steering couplings locally and see if it can all be made to work

    regards Paul

  12. #20
    Official RnS Addict 28Chevy's Avatar
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    Just remembered a vid I shot last year, look at what must be the ultimate miss-matched steering arcs ever seen on a vintage racer

    But those guys ain't scared one tiddy little bit

    I reckon the secret to it's driveability is a very flat stiff spring so it's length hardly ever changes.

    https://youtu.be/q0I8-e6As64

    Just for reference if you decide to go that way I took a pic of my Chevy, I thought the box was nearer the shackle it but it doesn't look too far off what you had mocked up with the ply bracket.

    DSCF0152.jpg

    So if you decide on that option it may not be any worse than mine so too bad after all, although your single leaf spring will move much more.

    Bernard
    Whirrr whirrr chuff chuff de chuff........chuff......BRUMMMM!

    My Chevy thread: https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/sho...y-coach-403745
    Rugged Robin 2/3rd track: https://www.facebook.com/Rugged.Robin.tracked/

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