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  1. #21
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by 28Chevy View Post
    Just remembered a vid I shot last year, look at what must be the ultimate miss-matched steering arcs ever seen on a vintage racer

    But those guys ain't scared one tiddy little bit

    I reckon the secret to it's driveability is a very flat stiff spring so it's length hardly ever changes.

    https://youtu.be/q0I8-e6As64
    Lovely of course there are few bumps on a race track

    Great shot where he has his foot on the spare wheel , I reckon though I will have a bit more bodywork than that style so not possible for me.



    Just for reference if you decide to go that way I took a pic of my Chevy, I thought the box was nearer the shackle it but it doesn't look too far off what you had mocked up with the ply bracket.

    Attachment 251513

    So if you decide on that option it may not be any worse than mine so too bad after all, although your single leaf spring will move much more.

    Bernard
    Thanks for taking the trouble to photograph this , as you say close to what I wanted to do.

    The current steering box is inside the spring pivot at the front , however I can't achieve that if I move it to behind the axle as it would have to be mounted below the chassis and would interfere with the spring , so it would have to be behind the spring shackle if moved to the rear.

    Your description of the Chevy was very comprehensive and gave a great insight into car handling pre WW2 , I certainly want to capture the looks of the 1910's sort of pre-Blower Bentley however I don't 'need' to degrade the Sherpa handling to that extent.

    Although in all honesty the Sherpa is very 1950's in execution despite being designed in the 70's !

    regards Paul

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  3. #22
    Official RnS Addict 28Chevy's Avatar
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    Also notice the vertical king pins, no self entering at all, so if it bump steers off line they have to manually turn it back and possibly over compensate a little, a recipe for fishtailing.

    Add skinny cross plies on dirt roads into the mix and you really have to wonder at their sanity taking it anywhere near the speeds it was capable of !

    Bernard
    Whirrr whirrr chuff chuff de chuff........chuff......BRUMMMM!

    My Chevy thread: https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/sho...y-coach-403745
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  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    Ther is also a physics based limit on how far your u/js will go before creating ind. In my min dteh best solution here is to firstly ensure you can remove the pitman arm and reposition through 90' . The redrill the box mounting plate to lay the steering wheel to shaft just above teh chassis rail.
    Kapri and others who asked ?

    The steering box has 3 bolts holding it to a 10mm ish plate that has 4 bolts holding it to the chassis.

    So the plate can stay as it is so I don't have to alter the chassis keeping some of my 8 points.






    So if I undo the 3 bolts and rotate the steering box I can weld 3 tabs to the plate and reposition the bolts thus lowering the steering shaft if I need to.

    regards Paul

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    That's what I would do chief. I can make new plate if need be.
    I'm not the best welder in the world.... but I'm in the top 5!

  7. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by cc41memorylane View Post
    That's what I would do chief. I can make new plate if need be.
    Thanks for the offer , maybe just need tabs welding to existing one especially as the shape is quite complicated with bosses/spacers on chassis side.

    Need to find one of these :-



    There was one of these on my Sherpa connecting steering box to column.

    I realised if I can find one more it will fit my splines and one end is ideal for inserting a length of tubing into , although they appear to be cast ? which could make welding difficult ?

    regards Paul

  8. #26
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    No cast steel is fine cast iron is a pain. Drop me a line when you figure out what you need
    I'm not the best welder in the world.... but I'm in the top 5!

  9. #27
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    back from the dead ?

    Ok an old thread of mine and part of the reason for my lack of mojo and progress.

    So I have decided to have another bash and taking in your sage advice have tried to rotate the steering box ?




    So here you can see 4 bolts 2 on the vertical chassis and 2 on the horizontal holding a large casting that the steering box is bolted to in 3 places.

    the 2 empty holes @ 90' to the chassis had bolts for 2 of the 3 steering box mounting lugs , one lug can be seen vertically above them.

    The original steering column shaft splines were at 63.4' , I have managed to rotate the box so steering column shaft splines are now nearer 18'

    The sleeve the drop arm splined shaft exits is currently rusted into the cast plate and whilst I have rotary movement I cannot find a way of apply any force to it to get it free of the mounting plate.

    However I think there is enough room to make some mounts up and bolt them to the existing mounting plate holes and the existing steering box holes , without removing the steering box from the mounting plate I can't see anyway of getting in there with a grinder and welder ?



    The hole in the white painted part had the upper lug bolted to it and the lower lug that you can see was about 45' to the right before I persuaded it to move there is insufficient material to drill and bolt directly to the original plate sadly
    .



    last bolt hole hiding under front , insufficient material to drill and bolt directly to the original plate sadly



    Piece of dummy pipe standing in for steering shaft ?

    Clears radiator just and nothing else seems to be in the way , yet !



    How close it is to existing column.

    I do not have the column position finalised yet , so can't order any parts to connect these bit's.

    I assume I need 3 U/J's , according to Car Builder Solutions the large U/J I need has only 20' movement ?

    all the best Paul
    Last edited by stormbird; 09-08-2020 at 21:59.

  10. #28
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    you may find the steering wheel too vertical, like a boat wheel. run your column from the box parallel to the chassis until it's closer to the bulkhead then angle it up through the bulkhead. you can experiment putting the column at different angles until the steering wheel is comfy. this is what i did with my anglia gasser.
    neil.
    edit, just noticed the column up to the dash is fitted, still my suggestion of running the bulk of your new column parallel to the chassis is neater.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

  11. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by mygasser View Post
    you may find the steering wheel too vertical, like a boat wheel. run your column from the box parallel to the chassis until it's closer to the bulkhead then angle it up through the bulkhead. you can experiment putting the column at different angles until the steering wheel is comfy. this is what i did with my anglia gasser.
    neil.
    edit, just noticed the column up to the dash is fitted, still my suggestion of running the bulk of your new column parallel to the chassis is neater.
    Neil

    yes I wanted parallel to chassis [ sort of though that was a bit OCD ? ]

    the column is just bolted to a mount already on the pedal box straight out of the Sherpa ?



    so really it is 'van' seating angles etc , which I realise is probably not suitable for the style I am looking for.

    I had it all mocked up once and then spent ages changing my mind , need to revisit and get this thing fixed for building whether initially right or wrong ?




    paul

  12. #30
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    also it looks like the box mounting bracket is ally so maybe easier to remove that and start again with a steel plate bracket that bolts to the original holes in the chassis. so get your sherpa column in a comfortable place in relation to where you sit. then position the box so the input shaft points straight back allowing the 'link' part of the steering to be parallel to the chassis (it's not ocd it's good design practice to make it aesthetically pleasing), with a shortish link via uj's joining the 2. one thing i noticed, on the output shaft of the box there is a master spline. i can't remember but is there a master spline on the pitman arm too? if so you'll need to carefully grind it out of the pitman arm now that the box is turned from it's original position. the arm will need to still point down which it can't if on it's original master spline. a small die grinder and patience will work, just remove a bit and trial fit etc 'til it goes fully on the spline. good luck and keep the pics/updates coming.
    neil.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

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