Glad to help Si.
Glad to help Si.
What sites are they on mate ? Wouldn't mind seeing their builds if they're online.
I dont think they are on line, Kurt dug most of them out of his old computer for me as his car is on the road now. The other is Tom's which is also finished.
I get it from the Anglias group, which is a private message board for Anglia owners, though you are welcome to join if you have a pop :o)
Last edited by blackpopracing; 21-01-2011 at 23:44. Reason: spellink
No probs. Send us a link
sttering rack 400mm to balls
stock rotor = et 10
4j are 125 tyre - i willl go 6j 155-6- tyre, as the outer face will be the same, give a better scrub
stock stang tyre diameter is 603mm = 155-60 15 is 595, but on a 6j with the et10, to frnt end has stockish scrub, in effect i think the inner rims edge simply comes inboard the 2 inches, the outer face being the same casting.
nose=5 inch to floor.
1. rhd front steer smart car rack 400mm on balls , all alloy. m14-1.5 out. 4-1 ratio, double-d shaft input
2 heidts arms, i think the top ones are trimmed, these simply have 7 degree investment cast rod ends, 5/8ths 16mm cross shafts. so you can narrow them.
3. stock hub/rotor offset, only 9.15 diameter, stock calipers, drilled 4.5 - you can get them chevy too.
i think i neeed 6j et 10, with the tyre so its all stock.
maybe all you need to get started is a set of lower arms from speedway, for coilovers with the dodge moog joint, fab a top arm using 4 7 degree joints, the screw in ball joint on the bottom comes through the arm, unlike a princess one, which will want the threads pulling out, but however, you could use it in the top arm, as its pushing in in that location, and has the asme taper. thus still giving you the option of narrowing the top arm, this is because when you first fab the top yubes, you thread them and enscrew the joints in, so they bottom and are tight, you then bend them on the axis of the rod end, you only need the arm as wide so as to clear the crown of a 2.25 coil over crown, I.E. you are 'fixed' if you use the stock top arm of the stang 2 and its cross-shaft, where-as if you simply use some 12.9 grade bolts, they are stronger too.
also, another fluke that may arise is that you may be able to angle the top armback, much like a jag or vette, and the arm actuall follow the line of the chassis/inner wing, i say it as if you have a engine more forwards, you may just need a biy more to miss the front header on the further forward side, so realistically, the path of the top 'pin' -if already leaning back for dive, might benefit from being spun so the top cross-shaft is in effect more in line with the rear-ward path of the top-joint
Last edited by Nobler; 04-04-2011 at 01:05.
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