Oil pressure sender
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  1. #1
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    Oil pressure sender

    Good evening gentlemen,
    I have a 51 F1 with a 350 sbc, it was built before I bought it, and im having trouble with the oil pressure gauge.
    When I first got the truck, the oil pressure didn't seem to read anything, I put it down to a faulty switch, as the engine ran fine, no knocks or rattles etc.
    Then the switch started leaking, so I thought I would replace it with something that actually moved the needle.
    So I bought a new switch from demon Tweaks, after first checking the gauge itself was working, shorting the wire to earth had the needle moving.
    I bought this one https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sear...y/q/lmatim097/ but still have no movement on the needle.
    I have measured the pressure using a stand alone pressure tester and its fine. The truck was converted to 12v before I bought it , im not sure what kit/loom/trickery was used.
    any advice would be so gratefully appreciated.#
    cheers.
    Dave

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    sebspeed is offline
    does the sender have the correct ohm's range to suit the gauge?

  4. #3
    Stroker Kustom Jim's Avatar
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    I fitted electric sender gauges last year and discovered that they needs very stable voltage. I fitted a 10 volt!? stabiliser (I think) off eBay to the power feed for them and bingo they all worked including oil gauge, just takes a while for needle to wind up

    For example on the official Smiths gauge website it has this requirement in the small print!!!

    https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p...liser-cb-vstab
    Last edited by Kustom Jim; 04-02-2020 at 21:53.
    "We should take comfort that while we may have more still to endure, better days will return: we will be with our friends again; we will be with our families again; we will meet again."

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    Sounds more like a mismatch between the sender and the gauge than a voltage regulation issue. You would still expect it to work without a regulator, just rather inaccurately.

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    Nowheresville JackGriffin's Avatar
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    Is it earthed through the threads properly? Unlikely to be the problem, but a smallblock Chevy would have an 1/8" NPT thread I think, so if someone used gobs of PTFE tape or sealant that could affect it?
    Screw EU

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    Quote Originally Posted by JackGriffin View Post
    Is it earthed through the threads properly? Unlikely to be the problem, but a smallblock Chevy would have an 1/8" NPT thread I think, so if someone used gobs of PTFE tape or sealant that could affect it?
    It has a right angle adapter on the block form the sender to screw in to, I took the whole thing off and cleaned everything so don't think its an earth problem. I may have to investigate further, im not sure what wiring kit the truck has, but the gauges look to new to be original.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kustom Jim View Post
    I fitted electric sender gauges last year and discovered that they needs very stable voltage. I fitted a 10 volt!? stabiliser (I think) off eBay to the power feed for them and bingo they all worked including oil gauge, just takes a while for needle to wind up

    For example on the official Smiths gauge website it has this requirement in the small print!!!

    https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p...liser-cb-vstab
    I have a voltage stabiliser somewhere, wonder if its worth trying, My fuel gauge doesn't really work as well, so worth a try . Thanks everyone.

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    352 kum is online now
    throw it away and use a capillary type setup
    at least dick turpin had the decency to wear a mask!

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 352 kum View Post
    throw it away and use a capillary type setup
    The guage in the original cluster isn't capillary tho, as it happens, I did find an old smiths pressure guage yesterday amongst my late dads stuf. . . . . hmmmmm

  12. #10
    Forum Sponsor RAYS CLASSICS.COM's Avatar
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    hook up a capillary tube gauge & see if it registers if it does you're good to go if it does,nt you have a problem .

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