sounds like your sorted with your leaf springs.
Last edited by old pizz yella; 05-04-2010 at 20:02.
So if i was to work on the principle that the angle of attack i have at the moment is correct but its the length on the ladder bars that wrong
Would you think that if i mounted the springs at that angle it would be ok
Im just worried that the front part of the spring being the same length as the ladder bar then i may suffer a similar problem
(And i dont want this to be me)
Vince to show you how easy it is to affect things. One well respected tuner of early Camaro's/Firebirds was Herb Adams. One trick he used on those cars was to move the forward spring eye mounting of the rear axle up about 1" (I can't remember the exact figure) in the chassis box. That simple change gave him a traction improvement when coming out of turns.
If you put that into a diagram and used the traction calculations given in something like the Alston book it would probably tell you why. You'd need to know where the centre of gravity of the car is though.
Vince I don't have the experience to guide you as I said others on here know more than me. I think if it was me I would be looking at setting the pinion angle for street use when mounting the axle and then making plenty of calculations depending upon what traction device you end up using.
Correct car geometry is thrown all over when you change ride height, both for steering and traction, so a degree of experimentation will probably be needed.
Just realised what you are thinking ie: will the instant centre of a leaf spring be the same as the ladder bars?
Nothing wrong with slapper bars when set up correctly. (Though I think I'd want them to sit under the front spring eye)
Last edited by Plumpcars; 05-04-2010 at 20:23.
C of G was around the middle of the front doors/gearbox mount length ways along the car and i would of said around the seat squab height WHEN it was 4" off the floor, NOW tho, id hate to think
It did handle well with very little body roll i do hope that i retain some of that
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