Putting compressed air in a cylinder to remove valve springs
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  1. #1
    Official RnS Addict wakesupremo's Avatar
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    Putting compressed air in a cylinder to remove valve springs

    Now that my motor is run in I've got to fit the double valve springs. What P.S.I do I need to put into the cylinder to make sure the valve holds up but doesn't damage anything in there Whilst I remove the collets etc.
    If it's got tits or tyres, its gonna be trouble

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    Supercharged 461 cu in prostreet70gto's Avatar
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    I set my compressor to 100 psi, you wont damage anything.

    Things to remember if you havnt done it this way before........

    Make sure the piston of the cylinder you are doing is at TDC so that if the valve drops for some reason you wont need to remove the head to pick it back up.
    I normally leave the spark plugs in ALL the other cylinders so that the engine doesnt try to turn over.
    When you are ready to remove the valve springs give the tops of the springs a little tap to unstick the collets which tend to bed themselves in slightly.
    If you do them by FIRING ORDER, you will only need to rotate the engine 45 degrees to be on TDC at the next one in the firing order each time

    So easy you will wonder why you never did it before

    Simon
    One word can say so much.....BLOWN

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    Official RnS Addict wakesupremo's Avatar
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    Thanks for that advice. My only concern now is how the hell do I get onto cylinder 5 &7 valves as the brake servo is right in the way?
    If it's got tits or tyres, its gonna be trouble

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  6. #4
    [url=http://www.nobrain.d NoJive 55's Avatar
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    I did this a couple of time but I've took the plug out turn the engine over by hand till the piston coming up on the right stroke then run some string in through the plug hole then turn the engine again till it cant go any further..................now get on with the job......E Z



    Bob........

  7. #5
    Official RnS Addict wakesupremo's Avatar
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    I have all the plugs in apart from the number 1 cylinder with piston at tdc on number 1. With 80psi it spins the motor over backwards.
    If it's got tits or tyres, its gonna be trouble

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    Official RnS Addict rodster's Avatar
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    sounds like youve not quite hit tdc, if you get it bang on it won't move, iv'e done them this way and the rope way before without any trouble,
    If quitters never win, and winners never cheat, then who is the fool who said "Quit while you're ahead"

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    Official RnS Addict wakesupremo's Avatar
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    Maybe a bit un conventional but a pair of mole grips on the flex plate next to the starter motor cured that little dilemma. It's a tad tricky getting the collets back in after the other spring is installed as I never allowed enough room when making the compressing tool. I'm managing slowly though.
    If it's got tits or tyres, its gonna be trouble

  10. #8
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    i put the piston to bdc then poke as muchold style (hession?) washing line pulley rope in through the plug hole as i can. next turn toward tdc til it jams against the valves/head and you don't need air pressure at all. once the springs are changed turn the engine back and pull the rope out. this sort of rope will burn easily if a thread/strand come off in the bore so no worries. regarding the servo carefully unbolt the master cylinder and move it slightly aside (still connected to the pipes so you don't have to bleed the brakes, they should flex enough), then unbolt the servo out of the way. do those 2 cylinders then refit the servo and cylinder.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

  11. #9
    Hammer-based simpleton
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    I use 45-50psi, no problems with engine turning with all plugs out. Just did another set over xmas. btw I give the valve stem a belt with a hammer, helps unstick collets that don't want to move.

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