Rear end upgrade to Ford 8.8. - Page 15
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  1. #141
    Official RnS Addict brading's Avatar
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    Looking at the caliper mounting bracket in reply #18 wondered if it would be possible to add some metal to this ( basically make it more circular ) so that you can reposition the caliper bracket further round. Another possibility is new caliper mounting brackets that mount the same as original brackets and Sierra rear calipers. You may have to skim the disc thickness to suit.
    Last edited by brading; 06-04-2016 at 10:19.
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  3. #142
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    maibe find some disks that are slightly deeper in the center and smaller in diameter so the calipers mount further away from the rim or mount it so it sits behind the axleshaft , it would mean rewelding the caliper brackets , the second option involves moving the backingplate for the parkingbrake too and removing the axle to get to the parkingbrakes/ disks ana mounting the studs in the brakedisk instead of the axle and add spacers
    maibe you can hit the edge of original disks in a lathe and mount the calipers closer to the center
    i have seen calipers that where ground down a bit but it wouldnt be my choice
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  4. #143
    Official RnS Addict brading's Avatar
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    Just realized my mistake in my reply #141. What I meant was adding some metal to the bracket on the axle that the caliper bracket mounts to amd not the caliper bracket
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  6. #144
    Official RnS Addict Stude Star's Avatar
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    Thank you very much for throwing ideas out there. I like the cutting of the axle case and rotating the backing plate/mounts etc. the case will need cutting anyway to narrow the new axle ( I'm selling the current axle). Also if there's a direct bolt on solid mounted caliper that can be substituted that would give me a bit more room as the explorer caliper protrudes a long way into the car unlike a wilwood etc.
    does anyone know the name of the explorer caliper ie m16 etc?
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  7. #145
    Official RnS Addict brading's Avatar
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    I take it that they shorten the axle tubes it is at the banjo end, so before they are welded in again have tubes turned in relation to the pinion so that the brackets on the axle are suitable position that the caliper brackets sit lower in relation to the chassis
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  8. #146
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    the way i would try it is to cut the tubes at the ends with a pipecutter http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/pi/mp/2775...wid=180hei=140
    stick the sawed off ends in a lathe to recover the bearingholders and stuff and wittle them down so they slide intoo the tube ends still on the diff hopefully ending up reasonably treu
    weld them with a alighn bar in place
    i have heared of poeple welding around the cast part with special electrodes (made to weld cast iron ) where the pipes are pressed intoo the banjo part but thats more for strengthening they usually leave the tubes in place
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  9. #147
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie Ben17484's Avatar
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    Lovely looking car that! Have you got any more pics of the interior?
    Looks like you're not too far from me (I'm in Blackheath), do you get the Stude out to many local shows?
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  10. #148
    Official RnS Addict Stude Star's Avatar
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    Cheers guys.

    FYI the narrowed Explorer axle rear end on the car was always a stop gap rear end as we didn't want the car off the road too long whilst waiting for half shafts and stuff.

    So Steve Large narrowed the current one (3 " out of one side) with two 'short' Explorer axles so we could then get the car back on all fours. (56 1/2")

    I'm building another Explorer axle, this time it will be about 4 inches shorter than the current one (approx 7 " shorter than a stock Explorer), this will be narrowed both sides with aftermarket shafts so i've got free reign to do whatever I like caliper-wise.

    I'm liking the rotating of the backing plate, I will remeasure and take more pics tomorrow to see where we stand caliber -wise and whether the bleed nipples wiil work out. I'll have to remind myself about the parking brake cable and where it goes through the backing plate as it may not like being at a dodgy angle.

    Thanks yeah it's a striking car, the interior was Cream and we've been gradually changing it to black which is time consuming as it means taking the dash out and all the other metal bits in the car and spraying them.

    The interior looks a bit of a mess at the moment as there's no carpet due to the centre console being modded for a new shifter and the door seals not being in so we could prep and spray where the seals go

    The car gets used 2-3 times a week, it's really quite fast and handles well due to the front clip, coil overs, rack and pinion and 4 wheel discs. I'm in bromley so only down the road from you, we'll have to meet up, we go to loads of shows
    Last edited by Stude Star; 06-04-2016 at 21:05.
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  11. #149
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    if you're doing the job yourself and like the 'cut the ends off' idea, why not substitute 9" ends so you can do away with the nasty 'c' clips the 8.8 has? new shafts can be ordered with whatever ends you need so 8.8 spline and 9" at the bearing ends would be no problem.
    re calipers rally design do new scorpio/sierra handbrake calipers off the shelf with no exchange. much smaller, i used a pair on my anglia's 9" with simple brackets i made.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.
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  12. #150
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    Just make some brackets to bolt a caliper on, it's very easy.

    When I fitted an 8.8 to my car years ago...it sort of went like this, I used 4x4 Sierra Cosworth calipers as I wanted vented discs. Simple bolt on bracket arrangement
    I used Wilwood universal discs/bells, but you could easily hunt down some OEM discs of suitable measurements.
    I think I used either 8mm or 10mm steel for the bracket, it affixes to 3 of the OEM 8.8" flange bolts. Easy to make a template from wood or MDF first then steel

    I changed to c-clip eliminators.







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