maibe add a voltmeter to the dash , or one of those small red alternator warning lights
An alternator bolt had snapped in the block causing the alternator to hang down, we've extracted the bolt and ordered new ARP bolts. We'll fit those and refit the alternator and test. Not sure if the alternator is ok till we refit, bolt came out easy so if the alternator is ok then it's an easy fix.
Ok then, an update.
My Dad fitted the new bracket bolts and refitted the alternator, the volt meter was still saying 12v when running.
I put the multimeter on the battery whilst running and got 12.2v Mmmmm.....with all loads on we got 11,8v. but the volts didn't go down gradually so we knew the alternator wasn't charging but it was probably doing something.
I then disconnected the neg battery cable and got 0.4 Ohm's. So the alternator/battery circuit isn't open, which is good.
Then checked the fuses (again), all good.
I felt the one wire from the rear of the alternator and the post felt wobbly, thinking the alternator was probably junk we decided to take it apart and see why it was loose.
Low and behold the stud was loose because the wire attatched inside had fatigued and melted...but the broken wire was still leaning against its post, hence my intermittent alternator. I soldered up a new wire, cleaned the areas up, re assembled the thing, put it back in the car and hey presto 14v on the volt meter
So it was two issues
1 - the alternator cable inside had progressively fatigued and finally broken, but was still intermittently touching its post. (i think it was like this from new as it used to spark every now and then)
2- the alternator bracket bolt to the block had snapped causing the alternator to flop around.
Last edited by Stude Star; 14-06-2017 at 20:36.
that was a bugger to diagnose then. most would've just fitted a new alternator and not bothered to investigate 'why?'. good job mate.
need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.
Speaking to Real Steel they said flex plates can be out by 100thou either way from new. Chinese machining is so bad now that nothing can be taken for granted. It's amazing that 60 years ago they could produce stuff with exacting tolerates but now it's all over the shop.
No wonder were all having so many issues with parts that once would have just been bolted on.
"you can have 2 of these choices : fast cheap good "
if its fast and good it isnt cheap
if its fast and cheap it isnt good
if its cheap and good it isnt fast
allways go by this when buying stuff
Hey Stude, I'm looking for one of these if you have it. '97 Explorer rear leaf spring bracket LHS.
Dad took the Stude to Brooklands on Sunday, a nice show with a good turn out
We've taken the Stude bonnet and boot down to the Soda Blaster this morning, the plan is for them to strip and phosphate prime them, then on Tuesday we'll take them to the sprayers to get him to coat them up in the Antigua Blue metallic that car came in when we bought it.
The bonnet and boot are from the Texas car, they are currently in red and are being stripped as the paint it cracked and blistered due to heat from the Texas sun. I fully expect them to be mint once stripped
As the Vette is only a week or so away from being finished and Dad now has the Camaro my dad has decided to sell the Stude We've had the car 10 years and it's time for someone else to have some fun with the car (it's the most fun/usable car we've ever owned).
Anyhow the plan is to get the bonnet and boot sprayed but leave the doors as they look good ratty.
Last edited by Stude Star; 06-09-2017 at 21:04.
I picked up the panels from the soda blasters. They're mint and have been Phosphate primed.
They're at the sprayers now.
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