Reliant/general gearbox question
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  1. #1
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    yukonphil is offline

    Reliant/general gearbox question

    Posted this on Britchopper but maybe someone on here can help?

    Bit of a strange request, I've got an XS1100 bevel box behind a Reliant Robin gearbox to run a chain drive. They are solidly joined using an adaptor plate, so could I run the yoke that goes into the Reliant gearbox without the nut on the end of the output shaft, just to allow a small amount of movement to allow for frame flex etc? A freind who is very clued up reckons that the yoke might have to be bolted up tight to keep the rest of the gearbox in tolerance but i would like to leave it off, anyone have experience of anything like this. Many thanks, Phil.

    Is there any way to tell if the yoke has to be bolted in?

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    Official RnS Addict jaydub's Avatar
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    Can't quite visualise this... I would suggest your mate is right tho'.
    Frame flex?
    Wouldn't the engine, 'box and bevel box all be bolted up together and rubber mounted or are you using them as a stressd member?

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    The engine and gearbox are bolted to the bottom frame rails as is the bevel box. The yoke into the gearbox is bolted in and there is a yoke into the bevel box that is bolted in abd the bevel box and gearbox are bolted together with an adaptor plate so they are, in effect, a single unit mounted at different points along the bottom frame rails. The expected power and velocities achieved will be relatively small (!) so frame flex should not be a too big an issue but I would like to allow some flex in the drivetrain to allow for any flex in the frame?

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    I'm Not Jed Clampett stueeee's Avatar
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    Haven't had my head in a Reliant gearbox for a long time -they used to be used on F750 race cars. But if IIRC, the nut on the drive flange sandwiches both the speedo drive worm gear, and more importantly the third motion shaft bearing, which in turn keeps the first, second and third gear hubs in place. I would use a disc or doughnut style flexible coupling between the gearbox and bevel box, something like the sort that's used on the front of split propshafts.
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    I know what yuo are saying stueee but I don't have room for a flexible coupling, my adaptor plate is 12mm thick but even so the wheelbase of the finished bike is quite considerable, i aint going to be passing sportsbikes up the inside at hairpins anyway! If the nut has to stay (which it sounds like it does) then I will just treat the engine/gearbox and bevelbox as one unit and see what happens, perhaps look into some extra bracing between the two. I don't really think it will be a problem but I'm just trying to eliminate as many potential teething problems as I can.

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