Removing yoke on a Jaguar diff...? - Page 2
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  1. #11
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    It normally means one of two thing.Fisrt one is that when you fitted the new seal the inner spring that pulls the rubber around the yoke has popped out, or you've fitted it slightly askew ( polite word for ****ed). Or thirdly ( yeah, I know ) the yoke itself is marked ,scored or worn undersize .

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  3. #12
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    I will check out those alternatives tonight.

    Suppose both the seal and yoke are ok, can a too loose fitted yoke nut cause a leak too?
    Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement.

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    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    It shouldn't do, the idea is that the inner part of the rubber seal grips the tub on the yoke just enough to prevent a leak. The yoke tube is a ( or should be ) a constant size all the way down so where the seal fits shouldn't make any difference.

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  6. #14
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    ace pop is offline

    o ring

    Hi it seems that the oil is coming up the splines on the pinion there is a way of stopping this by putting a o ring on the pinion before you put the pinion flange on and this may stop the oil

  7. #15
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    The oil coming out by the splines will not be stopped by a o-ring around the yoke flang as the oil going this way passes inside the yoke flang.

    Ed at Ward Engineering recommended some heat and oil resistant silicone sealer under the centre washer & nut.

    I did this last night, but haven't filled the oil yet, as I want the silicone to harden first.
    Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement.

  8. #16
    Official RnS Addict scooder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by staleg View Post
    To remove the old seal I made a small change to my extraxctor to be able to fasten it inside the hole in the middle of the seal:



    Then removing the seal was easy.

    How it looks with the seal removed:



    To enter the new seal correctly, I used a piece of wood with a hole slightly larger than the rubber seal and a metal plate with a hole big enough for the pinion bolt:



    I entered the seal, put the piece of wood over it, placed the metal plate over the wood with the pinion bolt sticking thru, screwed the nut on the bolt and tightened enough to make the seal enter. This wasn't steady enough to put the seal all the way in, but app half way. The rest i tapped carefully in with a hammer on a 3" exhaist pipe that fit 100% to the flange on the seal. I tapped carefully until the change of sound told me the seal was in place (sorry for my poor language):



    To avoid destroying the collapsible bushing I used the photo I took of the nut and bolt before I disassembled the pinion, and compared to how it looked after the assembling. Notice the marks on the bolt and the nut and the two visible threads outside the nut:



    I also added blue loctite because the nut did't sit that hard when it was at the correct position.

    So did you back the nut off to line up the marks? when you say the nut didnt sit hard when it was in the correct position are you refering to the marks you made? Because if its leaking around the nut (it didnt before cus its dry an rusty in there) the nut isnt tight enough. What did you torque it to?

  9. #17
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    It ain't any torque number on this nut because of the collapsible spacer (according to Ed at Ward Engineering) and that's probably the reason for the leak.
    What I actually have done is a shortcut by replacing the rubber seal without replacing the collapsible seal in the same operation. Then I run into problems like this.
    Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement.

  10. #18
    Official RnS Addict scooder's Avatar
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    Thats short cuts for you, Often takes longer to complete cus you got to do it twice. Been there don that.
    Have you tryed nipping it up just past snug if you know what I meen see if it stops leeking? worth a go.

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