I'll try to scan them both this evening ( my scanner is a pain :( ) I'm working out the plan of attack on the APU at the mo . Checking advance is difficult as it's ( currently! ) fitted with an ESC Sierra module and it more or less make sup it's own mind what curve to giv eyou based on water temp and vac it sees. As it came off the 1.6 Economy model I think it's the first thing to hit the bin. I'm looking for a Transit based electronic dizzy longterm.
Looks like on some of those runs it gets seriously rich shortly after its opened up (but some of that might be misreading). However, if it is going up to 10:1 then thats the cause of the bogging down
EDIT - just remembered you said that the kickdown causes that spike...
The DGAV is fitted with a power valve that works on the primary choke.It comes in when the vacuum drops on snap throttle and I'm working on the idea of blanking the operation as a test to see if that is the cause of the bog. The run is done in starting in 2nd and the spike is the change up so anything below 40mph is a bit misleading ( possibly ).
They are normally calibrated weak on primary choke for economy and the power valve adds the fuel when acceleration needed .It didn't bog before I rejetted but it didn't pick up quickly.
OK, started troubleshooting the A engine today.
First off checked full throttle travel is WOT ,all good.
I've swapped out the old dizzy and gone with Cortina points dizzy and full 12 volt coil. Stuck 14' advance in ( no vac advance connected ) and it's sounding good,haven't road tested it yet .
I've used a vacuum gauge and I'm getting 17-19 reading with a rapidly pulsing needle ,raise the revs and the vac increases and the fluctuation all but stops. Worn Valve guides allowing the valves to rock ?
Snap throttle tests show the engine is in good nick (drops to 2 and snaps back to 25) and holding steady shows no drop so exhaust isn't blocked.
What's going on with the fluctuating needle though ? Cam is Injections sprts torque, higher lift but almost stock duration, with matched valves springs and valves were all reseated before fitting?
Mixed results ,picks up better off the line ,500 more rpm top end but pinking . At least that's the ignition system ruled out as the culprit.
Need to knock the timing back tomorrow and try again.Vacuum figures will drop for sure with less timing.
Progress(?) so far today . Timing knocked back to 10 btdc and valve clearances all checked , couple 2-3 thou loose but nothing else showing , cam lobes all good.
Looked at valve timing again. I remembered that the bolt on plate was a little battered and the point not as 'sharp' as it could be .I also have to see the cam timing marks in a miror as you cant see straight on. Anyway , there was a possibility that it could have been a tooth advanced so knocked it back one.
HORRIBLE!! Flat ,lost that crack as the cam comes on and not revving out through the lower gears cleanly .In top it will rev to 4000 but that's it.
While looking around my garage found another timing plate so ,once it's cooled down, going to swap that over and have another look.
Hve you got a vernier pulley on it?
I found that when I used a Kent EFI cam, the only way of getting both the timing and belt tension correct was to use one. With the tension right, none of the timing marks lined up, and it drove really flat(still with the EFI - even a decent carb like a DGAV is hopeless by comparison); fitting a vernier took about 20 minutes and cured the problem entirely. That cam and hour's work with a Dremel on the head on an otherwise stock 2.0l Capri, including the exhaust system, made the car as quick in a straight line as a 3.0l, with 40MPG on the motorway.
I love a good Pinto!
I've got the vernier pulley on order. The head and cam swap was a 'down and dirty' one , the head gasket had blown so I took the opportunity to fit these on quickly and didn't have a vernier pulley to hand at the time.
I used an FR30 on my other Pinto ,VERY similar duration ,and lift, and that runs fine.That only shows 10" of vacuum on tickover unlike this at 17-19 . With the timing retarded on this cam ( FR34) it's dropped to 15-17.
I've just ordered a new petrol pump as well .I keep looking at the power graphs and it all dies when the second choke should be coming in when in top but the mixture figures say it isn't leaning out.:confused:
I've just spoken to Kent Cams and even they can't understand it. They say that even on standard OEM timing marks it shouldn't stop revving in top .They also said the torque comes in early and flat through the range , unlike mine which is early and then starts dropping .
Rain's stopped play for today but got my new fuel pump to fit tomorrow as well now.