rover v8 stuff
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Thread: rover v8 stuff

  1. #1
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie GlennC's Avatar
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    rover v8 stuff

    Hi all, i've got a couple of questions to ask
    i am in the process of changing the head gaskets on my engine, there was more than enough evidence that they were leaking around the water ways i.e getting hot, water loss and a bit of steam from one exhaust.
    so off with the heads and sure enough around the rear water way on the nearside head there was signs of leaking (i presume the waterway shouldn't be "sooty" ).
    so heads away for skimming (tin off, composite on and enough metal removed to compensate).
    two questions, i have read a lot about setting the preload on the followers but i have no shims fitted, do i need them? or do some engines not need them.
    the cam i think is a viper hurricane (Andy Pitt might remember), the cam has purple paint on the end of it, can anyone identify the cam by this paint?.
    oh i just thought of a third question can anyone recommend suitable ignition timing, standard dizzy with the vacuum blocked off (holley,edelbrock)

    Glenn

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    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    You need to use 'Go /nogo' gauges. Made from household copper wire strands the same gauge as required , ring main and 30 amp cooker wire from memory . The shims go under the rocker pedestals , they may vary from head to head but should be the same of all pedestals on one head.
    Some heads don't need them but it's best to check ALL first and order a set if required.

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    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie GlennC's Avatar
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    Hi there Kev, do you where i can find the procedure for doing this i have looked in my rover manual but can't find any reference to it

    Glenn

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    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    Usually contained in instructions for replacement cams Glenn, I know the procedure but not the actual preload ( though the wire gauge thicknesses above is good ). Bascally bolt everything up to torque and then turn over until the cam is on it's heel ie no lift at all opposite the peak lift point. Bend the end of the go /nogo gage at 90 degrees and insert alongside pushrod , just underneath the circlip retainer. If the big one fits you need spacers as there is too much preload , if the other thinner one doesn't go under you don't have enough preload .

    For ease of following best to work your way along the camshaft cylinder by cylinder on one side .

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    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    Googled from Tuning the Rover V8

    Lifter Preload
    If you have fitted a mild performance cam of the type which do not require additional headwork, then you are strongly advised to check the preload on the cam followers as the base circle on the camshaft is likely to be different.
    This is rather easy and requires only a piece of welding rod with the last 5mm bent at 90 degrees and squashed to 30-40 thousands of an inch diameter as a gauge.

    With the heads and rocker gear fitted and torqued, rotate the engine to TDC on No.1 cylinder. Both inlet and exhaust valve should be closed and it should be possible to insert the gauge between the pushrod seat in the follower and the circlip in the top of the follower. Record the clearance and do this for each follower, making sure the follower being measured is on the opposite side to the lobe.
    The acceptable range is 20-60 thou for standard engines and purists should aim for 40. If any values are larger than this then the rocker pedestals will need to be shimmed by an amount sufficient to keep all of the clearances in the acceptable range. Use the same size shim under each pedestal otherwise a broken rocker shaft will result and make sure the oilway hole lines up with the drilling in the cylinder head.
    If the values are less than 20 thou, in all probability you are using worn rocker gear and wasting your time or your assembly is wrong. Values too large require shims under the rocker pedestals, values too small require machining of the rocker pedestal bases by the required amount. This is a very unusual condition with new components and everything else should be checked before cutting metal.

    The rockers have a ratio of 1.6, which means that if you need to correct a preload of 50 thou down to 30 thou, you will need shims which are (50-30) x 1.6 = 30 thou thick. Packs of shims are available from Real Steel and can be made from shim stock if required.

    If you have had the heads and/or block machined and/or have moved from a composite to a tin head gasket and have fitted a performance cam, there is a small possibility that the preload on the followers will be excessive to the point that fully tightening the rocker shaft bolts will overstress a pushrod or rocker arm. If this is so, check the preload while progressively bolting down the rocker shafts and shim as appropriate before applying final torque.

    Some (very few) aftermarket cams specify different preload settings so check carefully what the preload should be.

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    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie GlennC's Avatar
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    wow more than enough to keep me going, looks like with a machined head,change to composite gasket and uprated cam i better had check it then !!!!!!!

    thanks again Kev

    Glenn

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    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie GlennC's Avatar
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    Evenin all (spesh Kev)
    got the engine all back together, god i am fed up with cleaning engine bits (even the brown stains have come off-valve springs and all) lots of new bits christ ain't real steel quick with deliveries?- next day prompt
    anyway almost last job check valve preload, bugger knew i should have ordered some shims got a measurement of approx 80 thou, a little too much to fire up and see if it still gets hot-oh well there goes this weekends happy moment perhaps lady luck is making me wait for the good news?.

    Glenn

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    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    You should have ordered them Glenn ...would have been right if you had

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