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  1. #11
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    68roadrunner is offline
    I would def be having the heads pressure checked before being worried about them being flat...."heads were off for inspection only" ..on an Essex engine that usually means " to try find an overheating problem".

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  3. #12
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    In my opinion any engine that has been dismantled and history unknown, i.e. how much moisture, grit and dirt has got round the pistons and bearings and into un-capped holes, should be completely dismantled for inspection and cleaning. Do it well, do it once.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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    Stroker Kustom Jim's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    The venerable Essex V6 is one of the few engines I have tore down.

    Took it to bits to check and convert to front sump. Easy, just take ya time.
    Mate said have the whole lot balanced, match the manifolds to gasket and use diesel lead n copper shells!? (Didn't need a rebuild, all checked out fine)

    Ran like a champ in my Consul, (40 IDF, Savage headers) lovely engine.

    Ps all coming back now... Always worth checking replacing fibre tooth cam wheel!
    Pps I wish the my first two attempts to buy an Essex had their heads off as one was cracked and the other an ancient 2.5 Zodiac door stop.
    Ppps Got one from a running Granada and tore it down to check lol
    Pppps i would of thought you could sand all day on cast iron and not make any impact other than surface rust removal, but as said with pistons in grit may fall in to bores.
    Last edited by Kustom Jim; 31-05-2017 at 08:17.
    "We should take comfort that while we may have more still to endure, better days will return: we will be with our friends again; we will be with our families again; we will meet again."

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  6. #14
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    WD 40 and Wet n Dry from 400 upto 1200, on a block to keep it flat, will clean the decks. For your bore inspections, WD the bores then wipe them with a white toweling rag. Look at the rags to see all the gunk that has come out. When happy with state of bore being clean, rotate crank by hand until 2 pistons have just passed Top Dead Centre. They should have left the accumilated gunk at the top of the stroke and you can now clean that away. Repeat for other cyls. The WD clean should have loosened anything allowing it to stay up top.
    When happy bores are clean, have a good look at each one. What they look like at the top is ideally how they should look all the way down. The bore will be showing signs of wear(Slightly polished as opposed to the dull finish at the top of the stroke) If you can see any up n down marks or scratches(Top to bottom of bore) you need to look at reco-ing things. Also, if the WD leaves little stained stripes up the bore when you have turned the crank over, that also indicates ring wear/damage and again you will need to look at rebuilding.
    I have re-ringed(just putting new rings on the current pistons in the block) a couple of engines after running a cylinder hone(on an electric drill) down the bore. Not a performance option but cheap and gets the thing running well enough to keep going until the new engine or cash for a rebuild is there.

    Hope some of this helps.

  7. #15
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    Thanks all for the comments. I'll have another play at the weekend.

    I appreciate the advice - I'll spend money where it's needed, but I'm on a budget so really only want to spend where it's actually needed.

    Jim - interesting re the front bowl conversion, I''ll be doing the same. Do you recall how you attached the pick-up pipe to your oil pump?
    Last edited by disco_monkey79; 31-05-2017 at 13:11.

  8. #16
    Stroker Kustom Jim's Avatar
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    Howdy, rather than try and find a front sump pick up I bent the rear sump one (I think lol).
    I wasn't happy doing that but it worked fine and dandy, just looked crap. Plenty of google images of pick ups but I just can't remember.
    I think the sump came from the very early MK4 Zodiac - dunno why I didn't get the pick up!?

    cheers
    Jimbo

  9. #17
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    If you fit a mk4 zephyr zodiac sump to a Capri or Granada Essex the mk4 pickup doesn't go far enough down into the sump. The mk4 oil pump is mounted lower in the block, later Essex engines had the pump up higher to fit the flat at the front sump. I know as fitted a Granada sump to a zodiac engine and had to make a bulge to fit over the oil pump.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

  10. #18
    Official RnS Addict brading's Avatar
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    This might be possible way for a front sump pickup. A flanged extension tube to go in between the pump and pickup pipe. Not sure if this would clear the crank throws. Then extend the pickup filter. This pipe work would need brackets to the main caps for support.


  11. #19
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    Thanks again everyone! I'm (hopefully) getting the sump, pickup, and timing cover - just waiting for the seller to come back to me with a carriage cost.

    Any idea how much deeper the mk4 pickup needs to go? I wasn't aware that the later pumps were higher. Or, to put it another way, how close should it be to the bottom of the sump bowl?

  12. #20
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brading View Post
    This might be possible way for a front sump pickup. A flanged extension tube to go in between the pump and pickup pipe. Not sure if this would clear the crank throws. Then extend the pickup filter. This pipe work would need brackets to the main caps for support.

    that's a cologne v6 not an essex.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

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