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Thread: Sbc clutch

  1. #1
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    Sbc clutch

    Hi all got a padal clutch and pulling away in 1st it juddered horrible pulled it a part and its got real hot so is there a replacement clutch that can hold 320 rwhp with a 100 /150 shot that won't drive like crap and cost millions its a 383ci sbc 26 spline 10.5 inch any ideas great fully received

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    I've got a centerforce dual friction 10.4" clutch in my Nova,
    it'll handle the power you've got and the pedal pressure is not much harder than a factory daily so also great for the street.

    Did you 'clock' the bellhousing to the crank as that may be cause of the judder?

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    Cheers

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    Do you mean doing the bolts up in an order that pulls the gear box and engine together evenly?

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    You need to bolt only the bellhousing to the block,
    Then fit a magmounted dial guage to the back of the crank,
    rotate the engine and take readings from the centre hole in the bellhousing and note the readings from different points like on a clock, run out should be no more than about 0.005",
    if higher then fit offset dowels to move the bellhousing to correct the runout,

    can take a while to do but dowels are only about £15 if needed from real steel in different offsets and you may also need to file the bolt holes a bit due to the offset.

    This pic may help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chevy2 View Post
    I've got a centerforce dual friction 10.4" clutch in my Nova,
    it'll handle the power you've got and the pedal pressure is not much harder than a factory daily so also great for the street.

    Did you 'clock' the bellhousing to the crank as that may be cause of the judder?


    We had a situation with a rod operated clutch on a chev once. Engine was hopped up for silly hp and that clutch juddered like crazy even after fitting new and it was all down to the engine/gearbox/axle mounts not restraining the beast within. Much work later the problem was solved.

    Bob

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    Cheers for the help never even heard of that before

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