Some roll cage advise
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  1. #1
    78 Bronco BRING IT ON! paddy's Avatar
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    Some roll cage advise

    I`d like some pointers in selecting the right size and type steel tube to make my roll cage out of.It`s for my Bronco and my intentions were to make a hoop for behind the front seats with braces going into the back and then a leg each side going from the top of the hoop across the top of the door down the a pillar to the floor. Finally a brace across the top of the windscreen.I am led to believe the seamless tube is incredibly expensive, so what other choices do i have. I have a hydrolic bender which will bend up to 2" tube so what thickness tube will bend best without creasing. Lastly when cutting out the half rounds at the end of each tube is that done successfully with a hole saw and careful measurment? I`m sure there must be dozens of tips those of you that have done this before can share and i`d be very greatful to hear them. Paddy

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    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    1 5/8" 3mm wall CDSII tube.
    Yes its seamless and no its not incredibly expensive.
    Its the only tube that is the correct grade for roll cages. (except for more esotoric tube of course).
    Hydraulic bender wont bend it though (it will collapse it), you need a mandrel bender.

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    1 5/8" 3mm wall CDSII tube.
    Yes its seamless and no its not incredibly expensive.
    Its the only tube that is the correct grade for roll cages. (except for more esotoric tube of course).
    Hydraulic bender wont bend it though (it will collapse it), you need a mandrel bender.

    Not strictly true Mark. A "bow and arrow" type bender will bend it to a point, and then it will fracture(unless it is hydraulic as opposed to mechanical tubing) or the wall will collapse.
    I agree though, for anything with more than 40 degree bends a mandrel type is the way to go.
    Paddy, don't even consider ERW tubing.

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    Official RnS Addict heavychevy's Avatar
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    The first question is do you intend to do any type of competition?
    If you do get a rule book from the organisers and follow that.
    The spec mentioned is good for drag racing but not for other motorsport. Drag racing uses a US rulebook but most UK motorsport uses the MSA blue book which specs inch and three quarter tube with a 2mm wall (from memory). The main issue you will face if it is for competition is tying it into the chassis which will probably require outriggers welded on the main rails. Plating it to the floor on a chassied vehicle is frowned upon as the body can depart from the chassis should the worst happen. Neil.

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    hello paddy
    like the others have said it depends what you want to do with it.

    cds if now cfs and the correct grade is bk as drawn.
    if you read the specs for racing its the only cfs that has the correct yeild strenth.
    its also the cheapest.

    not sure how anyone would ever know though if you used the wrong spec tube.grade not thickness

    local 4 x 4 boys use gas barrell for a lot of there cages and rolling down hills doesnt seem to do it any harm.

    kinda dissagree with the erw coment again though depending on application.
    road car just for looks youde have to have some hefty crash to split the tube and if you did im sure youde be brown bread anyways.

    beleive some roundy roundy cars are built using erw.

    cfs vary,s in price.look at around £6 to £7 a metre for 1 5/8 ". though it is a pig to bend with wrong bender.
    Rod/custom/drag build profiles:
    Mini | Pop | Porker | Trike | Morris 8

    | 48 chevy coupe | ford f100 | tube chassis,d pop

  8. #6
    Got salt Briz's Avatar
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    Funny enough, I was just ordering CFS3-BK tube today, including some 1.625 x 10g. Hub tubes want £6.58 per metre and Multitubes want about £9.
    You dont need a mandrel bender, a non-mandrel rotary draw bender will do it too.
    ERW isn't as rigid as CFS because it isn't drawn, but theres nothing wrong with it and it doesn't split. Hollow section is a different matter. The 2 are often comfused.

  9. #7
    78 Bronco BRING IT ON! paddy's Avatar
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    I`m getting a bit confused with all these abreviations. I want it for playing in the mud and off roading for fun rather than competition, at the moment that is.I need tube that i can bend on my hydrolic benders,I want to make tube bumpers and crash bars.Of course a tube that ticks all the boxes would be great.I do`nt know what a mandril bender is, or the difference between them. There must be a compromise or perhaps not.I must say that if i`m going to the trouble of making it i would like to make it right. As far as fitting it to the chassis or not, i`m quite happy with it just fixed through the floor.The frame that strengthens the floor of the body is heavier than any monocoque vehicle i`ve ever seen as standard.

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    45(1 3/4") x 3mm erw.
    id try to get an off cut first to try in youre bender.
    im sure hydrolic bender die sizes relate to internal pipe sizes so you may need to use the 1 1/2" die to bend the 1 3/4 tube


    if youre mounting direct to floor weld some 3mm plates to the floor first to spread the load
    Rod/custom/drag build profiles:
    Mini | Pop | Porker | Trike | Morris 8

    | 48 chevy coupe | ford f100 | tube chassis,d pop

  11. #9
    78 Bronco BRING IT ON! paddy's Avatar
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    Thanks for your help.What does erw stand for. Is this a suitable tube and is it expensive?The other question is about cutting the ends to fit, am i right in thinking this is done with a hole saw.

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    Official RnS Addict fordsondan's Avatar
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    pipe bender

    i have a hyd bender, heavy duty, but only one former, ill sell it at the right price,john.

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