Transit pitman arm - Alternatives? - Page 6
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  1. #51
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    Hi bud, try >99 ford ranger, looks very similar.

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  3. #52
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie SpannerPete's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stueeee View Post
    There doesn't look like there would be a lot of triangulation in plan view from the dead ahead shot in your post number four. Might be worth seeing what side to side movement of the axle you can generate using a block of wood as a lever between chassis and four bar setup. you should be able to do this with axle stands under the chassis and the axle hanging to avoid having to use a damaging amount of force. BTW, what are the back to back rod ends connected to the axle doing? do you have an anti roll bar on there?
    There isn't that much triangulation I must admit. I tried jacking it up and levering it and I can't get it to move. Rod ends are for the friction shocks. No anti roll bar.

    Quote Originally Posted by satan View Post
    friction shocks.
    Possible?

    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    Ok, I'm now going with theangle of the swinging shackle as creating a lock out situation making the car react badly to lumpy roads. The 4 bar is holding the axle still but the 1/4 elliptic needs to lengthen under load .

    This means the end eye goes up wanting to push the shackle upwards and the axle forwards but it can't as held in a fixed position by the 4 bar. (Using the pic as reference ) If the shackle was leaning back towards the axle , at the working end of the spring ( lower end of the shackle) the spring would be free to provide compliance instead of locking out .
    It could be the angle of the photo, shackles are at 45 deg. Should they be vertical?

    Quote Originally Posted by Doozer View Post
    Hi bud, try >99 ford ranger, looks very similar.
    Thanks, I managed to track a transit one down thanks to the wonderful people on this forum.

    There is a definite bump steer issue that needs addressing as I noticed it tried to jump across the road when I hit the gas last night It's just finding a way to change the angle of the drag link I think?

  4. #53
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    It's difficult to diagnose when it's not ' your' hands on the job Pete. I'd try a jack under the spring eye to lift the car ( recreates bump load) and watch what happens .If it locks out then it needs adjusting so the spring can lengthen and shorten without obstruction. Or even try simply standing on the chassis and bounce up and down to watch the movement. There will be slight movement due to rubber bushing compressing but it needs to move freely.

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  6. #54
    "call 0-800 Apocalypse" satan's Avatar
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    pete sort one problem at a time mate, the bump steer is imo because the drag link is at a severe angle, you need to level that out,there are lots of ways to achieve this, left hooker box flipped over,[this would put the pitman arm pointing upwards.] resulting in a level drag link.
    or use a steering idler.
    move the existing steering box higher,

    when you cured the bumpsteer, then address the "wandering",
    swop front wheels and tyres with someone for a test drive,see if it improves or worsens the problem.
    try a panhard rod [as level as you can get it, to locate the axle securely and reduce sideways movement. [make it functional,if it works,then make it "pretty as you feel the need to"
    again ,imo junk the 1/4 springs, go coilovers or transverse.
    if you try to cure two problems at once , theres a possibility a cure will be hidden for one because it worsened the other.
    And I heard a voice in the midst of the four beasts, And I looked and behold: a pale horse. And his name, that sat on him, was Death. And Hell followed with him.

  7. #55
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie SpannerPete's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    It's difficult to diagnose when it's not ' your' hands on the job Pete. I'd try a jack under the spring eye to lift the car ( recreates bump load) and watch what happens .If it locks out then it needs adjusting so the spring can lengthen and shorten without obstruction. Or even try simply standing on the chassis and bounce up and down to watch the movement. There will be slight movement due to rubber bushing compressing but it needs to move freely.
    Thanks Kev I'll give it a good looking at over the weekend.

    Quote Originally Posted by satan View Post
    pete sort one problem at a time mate, the bump steer is imo because the drag link is at a severe angle, you need to level that out,there are lots of ways to achieve this, left hooker box flipped over,[this would put the pitman arm pointing upwards.] resulting in a level drag link.
    or use a steering idler.
    move the existing steering box higher,

    when you cured the bumpsteer, then address the "wandering",
    swop front wheels and tyres with someone for a test drive,see if it improves or worsens the problem.
    try a panhard rod [as level as you can get it, to locate the axle securely and reduce sideways movement. [make it functional,if it works,then make it "pretty as you feel the need to"
    again ,imo junk the 1/4 springs, go coilovers or transverse.
    if you try to cure two problems at once , theres a possibility a cure will be hidden for one because it worsened the other.
    Yes I'm trying to get me head round how to cure the bump steer first. There is plenty of useful advice about the wandering as well, which I want to keep an eye on as well.
    I'm not keen on loosing the 1/4 springs as I like the look and have invested so much time and effort getting it to this stage, but on the other hand I don't want something that looks ok but doesn't work so I'm not ruling it out!

  8. #56
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    It's fine line with steering ratios , in all honesty I may well revise mine to something quicker by altering the arm length on the spindle end. I want it light enough to turn easily but not so light that it takes a while to react ( though this may help stop over correcting if/when you have bumpsteer). Also too tight a ratio gives pin sharp reaction to movement ,like a go kart but can easily lead to over correction.

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    Has anyone got any photos of a idler system that changes the ratio to give me a few ideas? I'm obviously googling the wrong thing because I can't find anything

  10. #58
    Dragging not Bragging vince-305's Avatar
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    Im not to sure mate but i think land rover use an idler system but not looked at how they work
    Bit'z 'N' Piece's
    Ford consul mk2 chevy powered highrider

  11. #59
    "call 0-800 Apocalypse" satan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpannerPete View Post
    Has anyone got any photos of a idler system that changes the ratio to give me a few ideas? I'm obviously googling the wrong thing because I can't find anything
    pete, i,ll see what i can dig up also, but in the meantime think along the lines of an arm with two holes at different points along its length, pivoting on a bush mounted to the chassis rail,one goes forward to the steering arm,the other back to the steering box,the length and spacing will determine the ratio,[kev can probably help here] i just try **** and if i diont die i figure its a success.
    And I heard a voice in the midst of the four beasts, And I looked and behold: a pale horse. And his name, that sat on him, was Death. And Hell followed with him.

  12. #60
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    Pete ............. I was going to say look at sherpa boxs (But looking at it it looks like transit) as i still feel you may have to raise the box and shorten the column (sorry) to get it on the same plane/plain but with the out put shaft being slightly longer you may be able to make it cowl steer

    http://www.nsra.org.uk/newforum/showthread.php?t=20207

    there is one other option tho .................. raise the chassis 4 inch's so the arm is level and join me at cloud high
    Last edited by vince-305; 16-07-2011 at 09:29.
    Bit'z 'N' Piece's
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