Weird ignition timing..why is my mark not where it should be?? - Page 2
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  1. #11
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie [JP]'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    Do the weights in the top move out? If so how far?
    Maybe take a photo with the dizzy cap off with the weights at rest and then photo it with you pulling the weights out as far as they can go?
    It may have really light springs with a locking stop so all the advance is in on tickover?
    I haven't checked the weights but will do.

    Now that you all talk more about stuck in advance, the cogs in my brain are moving and it kind of makes sense taking in account something else I noticed today - my idle is at about 1100rpm just with the return spring pulling it, if I want less I have to physically pull it back, say like putting my foot under the accelerator and pulling it up - and then looking at the carb, the idle adjusting screw is not even touching the cam...

    So... are my cogs working in the right way thinking that if the auto advance is stuck, then the revs are higher, once I get it unstuck, revs drop down, then I can use the idle adjuster to get the revs right...and has nothing to do with the return spring being too weak. (this was something I was going to investigate next)

    You reckon it should be alright to drive 1 mile down the road?
    I would rather wait till after the MOT to start investigating this properly, just in case I mess something up tomorrow and get stuck (also only have about 1h free tomorrow to look at it)
    If so I'd leave it till thursday and then report back on my findings - always like to close all my questions with the solution in case it helps someone else along

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  3. #12
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    I dont think it will hurt it to drive a mile for an mot. Especially as you wont be nailing it.

  4. #13
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie [JP]'s Avatar
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    thanks! that will be the plan then.
    I don't think it's even a mile and its all 30mph so definitely not going to be nailing it..

    I'll report back on this post once I then start looking at the dizzy... will have plenty of time as I bet DVLA will take ages to send a V5. and I'm already sending MOT to lessen my chances of getting SGS out. (so far never had any inspection every time I send papers with MOT attached)

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  6. #14
    richard rawlplug Torment's Avatar
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    Not questioning your engine...but if its a genuine 69 302 it should be a dz code engine...
    If it is you do know these are very cool motors..I had one years ago in a dragster..christ it revved well.


    The Oddlot Drag Racing Team...havin fun is usual
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    your not drunk enough if you can lie on the floor without holding on..

  7. #15
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie [JP]'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Torment View Post
    Not questioning your engine...but if its a genuine 69 302 it should be a dz code engine...
    If it is you do know these are very cool motors..I had one years ago in a dragster..christ it revved well.
    it isnt actually, I checked it again....
    Well, actually someone might be able to tell me better.
    the block code at the back is 3970010 - according to https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/r...sting-numbers/ is a 3970010 Small Block V8 1969 302, 4 bolt, Camaro Z28
    However, on the front pad it reads V01!ITRL... which according to other website is a 69 350.
    Here's 2 photos, someone might be able to decode this better than me?




  8. #16
    Exceeded sell by date Plumpcars's Avatar
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    010 is a very common Chevy 350 block. They were only used on a limited number of late DZ motors but a lot of 350s. A block casting number is just for a block and not an engine number. That front number tells your true story. It's also very common for older Gm distributors to seize on the advance bobweights as said, especially HEI. There are differing balancers and tabs for small blocks depending upon the year though I understand that is not your issue. A mismatch can cause things not to align. Measuring tdc your way is not accurate so you can get a few degrees off. You need a piston stop/turn engine forward to stop/mark/turn engine back to stop again/mark. Split the difference and you have true tdc.

  9. #17
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie [JP]'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plumpcars View Post
    010 is a very common Chevy 350 block. They were only used on a limited number of late DZ motors but a lot of 350s. A block casting number is just for a block and not an engine number. That front number tells your true story. It's also very common for older Gm distributors to seize on the advance bobweights as said, especially HEI. There are differing balancers and tabs for small blocks depending upon the year though I understand that is not your issue. A mismatch can cause things not to align. Measuring tdc your way is not accurate so you can get a few degrees off. You need a piston stop/turn engine forward to stop/mark/turn engine back to stop again/mark. Split the difference and you have true tdc.
    yes you are right, my pencil method is not the most accurate, was good enough to get a ball park figure, but do need to make a piston stop out of an old spark plug... something to add to the list of thing to do when I'm sat waiting for DVLA to send the V5.

  10. #18
    Stroker Kustom Jim's Avatar
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    As an aside I bought a fancy dial back light only to discover that it wouldn't work proper because of my msd box and dizzy add ons.

    And my tuppence is stuck weights too

    If we didn't have any tools we'd just go old school and get a sweet tickover ignoring markings and if it didn't detonate hoofing it it was a good start etc !?

    I remember the days lol on a 350 I had a non vac distributor with no curve flexibilty, either ran like a train but stunk at idle or cruised nice and banged like a ****house door flogging it up a hill.

  11. #19
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    yep, agreed on stuck advance mechanism. if the timing doesn't change as you rev it up it's fixed/stuck at max advance. when you suck on the vacuum advance pipe with the dizzy cap off you should see the backplate inside moving round not the rotor arm moving.
    neil.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

  12. #20
    Official RnS Addict timbo56's Avatar
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    My SBC has about three different positions to time from and my damper has two different timing lines so you really need to find true TDC with a piston stop and also try timing it with the light initially set to zero. I'd go with what others say that the weights are stuck somewhere, you should be able get the advance mechanism to move by sucking on the pipe. Could the tic tic noise be pinking?

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