Weird ignition timing..why is my mark not where it should be?? - Page 3
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  1. #21
    Official RnS Addict thisYup's Avatar
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    thisYup is online now
    also check if there's some spring loaded movement if you try to twist the rotor arm, the rotor arm/top half of the dizzy shaft moves on the shaft for the mechanical advance, and the points base plate moves for the vac advance.....

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  3. #22
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie [JP]'s Avatar
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    Thanks gents, just had 1h outside to finished up a couple of things ready for MOT tomorrow.

    reading your comments looks like everyone is of the same opinion the advance is stuck, so once this MOT is out of the way the first thing I do when I have time is pull the dizzy out and see what's going on there.

    today starting the car with the door open I could her the tic tic noise coming from underneath, sounds like, maybe its coming from the exhaust junction where it goes from 4 into 1... maybe. can't be absolutely sure but sounds like it..
    something else to investigate after tomorrow.

    I'll definitely keep updating here as I start my investigation.

    btw.. this is the car. 65 Impala.



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  5. #23
    richard rawlplug Torment's Avatar
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    Check your distributor cap is seated properly..had this on an el camino last week..one of the locking hooks on the dizzy cap wasn't tightened causing the cap to sit on the **** causing a ticking from the rotor arm ****ting the post inside.


    The Oddlot Drag Racing Team...havin fun is usual
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    your not drunk enough if you can lie on the floor without holding on..

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    richard rawlplug Torment's Avatar
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    Stunning car by the way


    The Oddlot Drag Racing Team...havin fun is usual
    57 chevy wagon.
    540cui altered.
    your not drunk enough if you can lie on the floor without holding on..

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  9. #25
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie [JP]'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Torment View Post
    Check your distributor cap is seated properly..had this on an el camino last week..one of the locking hooks on the dizzy cap wasn't tightened causing the cap to sit on the **** causing a ticking from the rotor arm ****ting the post inside.
    yes, was properly seated, I have had that problem before on my C10, since I always double check those hooks have gone all the way round.

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  11. #26
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie [JP]'s Avatar
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    Hi all,
    MOT went alright yesterday, now time to sort some jobs while I wait for V5 from DVLA.

    Got a couple of hours today before I go away for the weekend, got that dizzy out.
    just a quick one on the TDC marking, I checked again today (sorry, still with my pencil) when I get the white line lined up with zero on the tab, that's when I first feel the pencil going down. surely that's not right correct? TDC is at the top of the cam and should only start to go down a little bit after the zero? not bang on, or just slightly before?

    back to the dizzy.
    pulled it out. sucked on the hose...no resistance, blown on it, no resistance.
    1. Pulled the advance out and once out, pumped it with my hand a couple of times and then yes, there was resistance sucking on the hose, but no chance of making that piston move.... can you actually make it move if you suck air in??
    2. I was playing around with the arms on the springs and they don't move, well, they do move, but I can't make them open and actuate the springs.... surely something not right, correct? I should be able to spread them apart by hand?

    thank you!





  12. #27
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Sucking on the vacuum unit should move it easily, diaphragm has probably failed. You should be able to buy just that part on its own.

    Yes, pulling the counterweights by hand should move them out approx 1/4 of an inch or so. They should move freely.

    That looks like a pre HEI dizzy, check for sideways movement down by the cam gear and at the top, there should be virtually zero play. If it flaps about a bit then its new dizzy time.

    I would strongly advise ditching the points and fitting a contactless kit - if the dizzy is shagged you could go for a new HEI as the cheaper option or spend a bit more & get an MSD replacement.

    Summit replacement is not too much money - includes the high power coil. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850001-1
    Last edited by blackpopracing; 06-11-2020 at 18:40.

  13. #28
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    PS, TDC is exactly at the point where you cannot feel rise or fall of the pencil.
    You could mark just where it falls them turn it backwards and mark where it just falls the other way. TDC will be exactly between these 2 marks.

  14. #29
    Stroker Kustom Jim's Avatar
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    Wow

    Quote Originally Posted by [JP] View Post

    Those springs look mighty sturdy! I just put light ones in mine and they're tiny compared.

    Mind, your car is fecking stunning

    "We should take comfort that while we may have more still to endure, better days will return: we will be with our friends again; we will be with our families again; we will meet again."

  15. #30
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie [JP]'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    Sucking on the vacuum unit should move it easily, diaphragm has probably failed. You should be able to buy just that part on its own.

    Yes, pulling the counterweights by hand should move them out approx 1/4 of an inch or so. They should move freely.

    That looks like a pre HEI dizzy, check for sideways movement down by the cam gear and at the top, there should be virtually zero play. If it flaps about a bit then its new dizzy time.

    I would strongly advise ditching the points and fitting a contactless kit - if the dizzy is shagged you could go for a new HEI as the cheaper option or spend a bit more & get an MSD replacement.

    Summit replacement is not too much money - includes the high power coil. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850001-1
    Well, there is something wrong with it, when I very quickly looked into it I did think something was wrong as it wasn't the same as on my C10.
    I can move the arms out a bit, but seems like the middle is seized. as i move the arms I cant open them all the way out, the springs dont even move.... I need to investigate further.

    On the subject of HEI dizzy, of course I appreciate and take in all the advice, however, I'm really not a fan of electronic gadjets.
    I have 3 old harleys (from 51 to 76) and all run on points, I had my C10 running points for 4 years, then someone convinced me to get electronic ignition, got a Crane cams I think it was, it lasted 3 months till it stopped working. One day didn't want to start, put the points back on...and stayed like that till I sold the truck.
    The way I see it is with points I can see when things are burnt or not working and it's cheap and easy to carry spare.
    With anything electronic, it's a little brain box that when things go wrong there's no way of troubleshooting...and carry a spare is not really an option.

    In regards to the dizzy, it is solid, there's no play on it, but do believe there is something seized at the top.
    If there's something seriously wrong with it I might look more into this HEI option, if I cant find a replacement dizzy for points.
    How is that HEI? is it a case of hooking it up, no coil needed? just needs a feed from ignition on?

    thank you.

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