Just spent 5 hrs applying waxoyl to my 65 fairlane. Man what a job, i ended up looking like a buttered rat.
Got the car up on my 2 post ramp and then
Adapted a good quality pump sprayer to use a 2ft length of brake line to get into every cavity (squashed the end to provide a spray pattern) then finished of with a schultz gun for the big surface areas.
Had a little fireball heater to heat the 5 litre can to almost boiling point and then thinned it slightly with white spirit to get it to spray.
Did everywhere and used 5 litres on the bugger. Worked a treat as soon as it hit the cool metal it froze.
Car is being passed on to my sons so needs to be protected long term.
I will be using 3m for inside the doors tomorrow as the waxoyl stinks too much for me.
Official RnS Addict
Cant say i'm a fan of waxoil its ****e imho always seems to dry and flake, i would say its ok for a clean underside ie no rust or flaky ****, the last time i used it i thinned it with engine oil, that worked but stays a bit slimey lol.
I think i will be going for Bilt hamber Dynax on my build. just saying
If quitters never win, and winners never cheat, then who is the fool who said "Quit while you're ahead"
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
liked this post
I think if there is no current corrosion issues any household protector is bang on. My only waxoyl experience was a vein attempt on a crusty car, it's not a rust cure etc.
I did my refurbed car with dinitrol and coupled with a garage and never again driven in rain, it's gonna last!! Just need some kids to leave it to
The car is spotless underneath and has 3mm thick coating of upol raptor applied when i did it bare metal a while back.
No rust any where but i just need something to get in behind any crevices to prevent crevice corrosion.
I ended up with that much applied that had to brush it in with a flag brush.
Dont use it in the wet but just just thought something is better than nothing.
I did apply 20 cans of gibbs oil to it internally 2 years back and i could still see it bleeding out on the dusty surfaces around the seams.
The car was a california car so good dry base to start with.
For rust protection in nuclear we use houghton ensys grease and this has been brilliant in keeping bare steel corrosion free but its for static items and not sure how it would last on a car with all the usual use.
Dinitrol is far better than waxoyl.
Use Dinitrol 4941 for underbody protection and Dinitrol ML for cavity protection. Many OEM cars are using this so it must be good and restorers swear by it.
Don't think any of my cars have corrosion protection besides 3M body schutz.
Never liked the idea of someone welding against waxoyl or any other cavity wax for obvious reasons.