After many years of internet learning I understand that maintaining velocity is crucial so too wide an opening is no good.
Mates got an S2000 and it has a huge calming air box from which required volume is drawn.
We all know that velocity stacks can deny air at speed!?
Anyhoo, I spent tortuous months making a proper four branch manifold for a stock 1703cc Consul and fitted a Nikki Carb to make it a rip snorting Cossie killer. Er no, it's all relative, it will only ever be an old anchor, full stop.
For those that have a Motor Trend account,Engine Master did a lot of back to back tests of air filter types
on an engine dyno to prove what works and what sucks.
there must be lots of tuning work done,that doesnt actually improve anything,expecially on road cars. maybe slightly different on race cars where youre flat out all the time.
saw some interesting dyno results very recently on lambretta engine case porting and gas flowing.something ive done befor to match the transfers of the barrels,and one mod all the tuners have raved about for years.
results on the dyno was it did nothing to improve either torque or hp. some fella,s just set a new flying mile record on a lambretta of 127mph with no crankcase mods.
makes you think doesnt it
A lot of people build race engines for street cars hunting the ultimate bragging rights or just hooning sideways round roundabout in a big cloud of smoke, or the rodding scne 'ultimate' , the burnout , does nothing for me at all.
There's always someone quicker than 'you'.
Kinda what I alluded to earlier. It's all relative. I pored over the Vizard budget small block Chevy book and it was clear all the little blue printing port matching stuff in reality meant nowt (but collectively on the track a big deal, longevity etc). Nice to 'blueprint' as it makes you feel warm inside, kinda like emptying the ashtrays and it goes faster. On street cars it has to be summat bigger than a few random 1hp tweaks.
I think a lot of Vizard’s stuff produced extra power more as a side effect of just building an engine with more accuracy than a manufacturer would have done on a production line. Making sure that the crank shells were exactly to size, match weighting rods, port matching and blue printing etc will produce a much more reliable and smooth engine with the added bonus of a few extra horsepower because of it.
Apply the same techniques to a race engine and you’ll do well. Randomly bolting on heads, a cam and a big carb isn’t getting the best out of a standard engine or the tuning parts you’ve spent so much hard earned on.
Just my 2p worth and could be totally worthless!!
I remember a mate discovering secondary vacuum springs on a Holley. He went through the lot eventually ending up with the weakest and it ran like ****e and he was moaning about the economy. Powers costs
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