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How to get a Pro Street Pop through BIVA

159K views 1K replies 107 participants last post by  PassTheGrinder 
#1 · (Edited)
This is not meant to be a "how to" but it will hopefully dispel a few myths about the BIVA test.

It will be a slow to update thread as I have no proper idea as yet as to what I will need to do to get a pass certificate - it's pretty daunting just reading the manual and trying to understand the paperwork involved - but that part will be looked at later (once Ive understood it).

Some of my mods will be a bit odd, but that's because I'm altering a finished car - if I was doing it before it was painted & finished it would be much easier to make everything correct and still look 'cool'

I'll start at the beginning as that's a very good place to start........:whistle:

This is what has to pass the test.



I'll start at the front and concentrate on the car up to the windscreen for tonight.
The scoop will need to go as it will fail on 'restricted vision' (otherwise it would pass as all edges meet the correct radii - it unbolts so no issues there, though I may have to make a low scoop to cover the hole in the bonnet). The rest of the front is ok I think as it meets all the radius requirements.



Anyone who has passed the BIVA test, please let me know if I'm right or wrong on anything listed tonight or in future posts.
 
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#2 ·
I'd be arranging to have a few hours with "Portland Pop" & photograph pretty much everything on his car! I'm sure he said the bonnet spoon WAS a problem, but was solved by sanding a bigger radius in it (might be wrong here though). Regarding the side repeaters, could you mount these in the door mirrors like a lot of modern cars?

It must be soul destroying, but I'm sure once you get into it it'll start to fall into place. Sometimes a solution to a problem is so obvious that you can't see it, so hopefully with you posting any issues on here folks can offer ideas that might help.
 
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#3 · (Edited)
Arrgh! took me ages to type all that out! Lucky I'm a moderator & can change stuff!

This thread might get multiple posts for a bit till I can sort it all out.

I'll need to delete a lot of peoples replies to achieve this so sorry to anyone who has posted if your replies go missing - I'll try to put them into quotes instead if possible.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Indicators - I cant find anything about minimum size of indicator so I think what I have is ok for size, but they are mounted too low so will need to be repositioned to comply as well as fitting side repeaters (not currently fitted).


I'm thinking I'll mount the indicators below the headlamp off the headlamp trim ring flange bolt with the wire running through the headlamp pod. This is because I don't want to go cutting holes in my flip front - if it was not finished I would just mount them higher up in the wing. This is a side repeater to show the position, a 21w indicator which will be very similar in looks (but with a wider angle of view) will be used. The original indicator hole will be filled with a rubber grommet.

 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
There isn't a size requirement for indicators nor a need for e markings . On something like a Pop or any car with a nose cone moving the light up there may restrict the required angle of visbility which needs to be considered at same time as min/max height PLUS distance from out most side of bodywork. Don't forget the sphere test which will mean that if it touches the indicator it will need to meet rad requirements . If it doesnt touch it doesnt matter.

The sphere test ( of varying sizes) represent knee/ elbow or head head contact by a pedestrian.

Thanks Kev, under headlamp fits the dimension placings - will need to check angles of visibilty - 45 degrees - but might be only 20 if indicators less than 750mm from ground?
Indcators will be in nice radiused pods :)
 
#16 ·
Wiring shouldn't be an issue BUT you again need to check angles of visibilty from the rear. If the rear wings make the car wider than the front the angle of visbility probably wont be met and you'll need to look at moving the repeater higher but still within laid down height and distance from front. This is why many include them in the wing mirror .It can also be included in body lines , it can be made small and discrete as no need for e marks again. However in belt line you again need to check lines of visbility which also have a min /max viewing point and sometimes a door handle can get in the way at some point between those points( from experience)
 
#22 · (Edited by Moderator)
Spoon will need radiuing I think , check with Nick, removing it then leaves the bonnet hinge ( which isn't there in your case) open to having to meet rad requirments a much harder job than rading the spoon.

My 'hinge' has a fairly nice radius on it so maybe not an issue, I think Geoff on here has a smoothed out spoon for this reason which I think I can borrow to make a cast of a smoother one for mine.
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
Bit late on this one but a full rad job before paint would be the normal way to go. In this instance probably a bonded cover with correct radius should sort it. Need of course to check first, and balance out the fact that hinges on a rod style body can only project 50mm, 40mm on shoebox style motors.

Yes, easy job to fix if car unfinished. I think a 3mm ally plate shaped to the door part of the hinge with full radiused edges bonded & gloss black painted should fix that then. Hinges protrude less than 40mm so no issues there.
Hidden hinges would of course cure all of this and I would have fitted them all those years ago if I know how at the time - would have made aligning the doors far easier too!
 
#10 ·
This is not meant to be a "how to" but it will hopefully dispel a few myths about the BIVA test.

It will be a slow to update thread as I have no proper idea as yet as to what I will need to do to get a pass certificate - it's pretty daunting just reading the manual and trying to understand the paperwork involved - but that part will be looked at later (once Ive understood it).

Some of my mods will be a bit odd, but that's because I'm altering a finished car - if I was doing it before it was painted & finished it would be much easier to make everything correct and still look 'cool'

I'll start at the beginning as that's a very good place to start........:whistle:

This is what has to pass the test.



I'll start at the front and concentrate on the car up to the windscreen for tonight.
The scoop will need to go as it will fail on 'restricted vision' (otherwise it would pass as all edges meet the correct radii - it unbolts so no issues there, though I may have to make a low scoop to cover the hole in the bonnet). The rest of the front is ok I think as it meets all the radius requirements.



Anyone who has passed the BIVA test, please let me know if I'm right or wrong on anything listed tonight or in future posts.
There is a forward angle of visbility requirement . This is set up an apparatus that is essentially a wooden pantograph with spirit levels / angle finders included plus a length of string ! I can't remember off and but think all the details are include in the section ' forward vision' section . The apparatus ( think his name is George by the way ) sits on a block of predertimied size that sits on your seat . The piece of string goes forward at an angle and above that line must be no obstructions.

This means you CAN have scoops and blowers fitted providing the radii is correct and they are not in the line of vision. Note this is the laid down line of vision which may not agree with your true line of vision.

the height of this can often be varied to suit an existing car by raising or lowering the seat but you must watch how it affects the shoulder belt mount on the seat belt IF using lap and diagonals( see what I mean about one thing affecting another?).
 
#18 ·
Nuts normally need a radius or suitable plastic cover ,it's the same with the angled spacers that many set ups use , they will normally fail on radius Blades and arms are exempt .Wipers must meet screen area clearance requirements an be two seperate speeds as laid down. On some motors this may require a 3 wiper set up to provide correct screen cleaning, worth considering before that roof chop.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Thanks Kev,
Wipers have a good sweep (I modified them to achieve this - from memory 120 degrees) and are 2 speed with intermittent, so job done there :) Nice to know arms & blades are exempt.

Ok, clamps on grill bars it is for number plate - an easy fix.

Ref side repeaters, this might be a bit of a problem as rear wings are wider than fronts, anywhere else on body is no good as Nick found out! front wings are wider than door mirrors though. Rules state 5 degree angle - I'd better hope that clears the rear wings :(
 
#28 ·
Its down to wiring again though. The loom is finished & completely sheathed everywhere with adhesive shrink tube on the ends, so not an option for altering now really. Apart from that it would be a mare getting the wiring up into the door hinges. Wiring for the wing repeaters is a simple job of just making loom extensions to plug into the existing loom plugs.

Wiring for the fog & reversing lamps should not be too bad as I left a couple of 'spare' wires in the loom which can be used, though the fancy box of tricks for the fog lamp will be fun to wire into the column as there is no room left at all in there - but that's a story for another installment.

Trying to keep everything as simple as possible to do with a little impact on the finished car as possible, many things would be dead easy if built into the car from the start.
 
#34 ·
#33 ·
Already you have issues over guessing whether something meets the requirements or not. Radii, go buy yourself a set of radius gauges, not expensive, then you'll be sure. Washer jets, door hinges etc, make yourself or have made a 100mm sphere and use that to determine if those items conform. You may not need one, but make yourself a large 60 degree right angle triangle to get some idea of the "floor line" of the vehicle and see if items like your header out lets meet the requirements. All simple stuff made easier with a few basic tools.
 
#37 ·
Ah, not understood that part - hope headers are ok then - they could be shortened a bit if necessary as they need re-coating anyway.
I can make some spheres at work, will buy some radius gauges - did not know they made such a thing so thanks for that.
I think you have got a car through BIVA - am I right in this?
 
#40 · (Edited)
Just bought some Moore & Wright ones off Evilbay :)
What section should I be re-reading about the headers sticking out Kev?

Hmmm....think I've found it section 16/29.
"Side mounted exhaust must terminate no more than 50mm from the extreme outer edge of the vehicle"
Hmmm depends on what the extreme outer edge of the vehicle is? They mostly stick out backwards?
 
#41 ·
Cartek also do a device for the rear fog lamp whereby you break into the rear side light wiring at the front, fit a "sender box", which is wired to the fog lamp switch. You then break into the side light wiring near the lamp, fix the "receiver box" which is wired to the rear fog lamp. The signal for the fog lamp is sent down the rear sidelight wire and uses the side lamp voltage to light the fog lamp when required.
Oh, and deal with Cartek direct, think it might be cheaper. Phone number 02380 457747 and ask for Neil.
 
#46 ·
Photos not really any good, can be deceptive. Opinions no good either, they either meet the requirements or not. You won't know that until you try it with some sort of tool, that's what they do. And if it fails, 9 times out of 10 they won't tell you what you have to do to fix it.
The Cartek gizmo (sender and receiver) isn't required, it just makes fitting the foglamp easier, you don't have to open the loom all the way down the car. I 'spose it's irrelevant any way because you've got to run a wire for the reverse lamp anyway.
 
#49 · (Edited)
NOT if the indicator is inside the headlight as operation of one light cannot affect another .ie you can't have the indicator behind the patterned lens but it can be in a separate section contained outside the actual headlamp but within it's shape if you follow .Look at something like a MINI .

In Marks case he has angel eye headlamps IF it meets angles of visibility the angel eye itself could be used as an indicator and the headlamp unit modified to take a sidelight bulb.


Talking of which any light that looks like a light WILL be checked unless rendered permanently non operational without the use of workshop tools. Simplest way is to remove the old indicator entirely and fit in a blank.

Bear in mind that if the light is too low for BIVA then it is also too low for C&U should you ever be checked on the road ;)
 
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