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  1. #21
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    cheers for the kind words Sid, we had a lot of fun with the slingshot. We ran the V6 for 1 season and to be honest they're pretty limited in terms of development. We eventually hoiked it out and stuck a Rover in there.
    And you're right mate, there is no known cure....on our fifth season and best to date is an 8.49 at 152mph, all I wanted was a little slingshot !.

    To the young lad building the slinghot. Do yourself a favour and get hold of the SFI plans. Theres no big secret about how to build a chassis that will tag. It's just tube thickness and tube placement. The skill comes with building a balanced chassis, well proportioned and most importantly safe. Not being funny but there is some ugly cars out there that have tagged as they are safe, just ugly.....so use the right materials and construction. No need to CAD this or that, the plans are already there, why re-invent the wheel ?

    Big things for your build, use the correct grade CDS steel, have the bends done for you on a draw round mandrel bender. Make sure the chassis is built on a jig, properly square and unable to move whilst welding. MIG is fine for steel, tig for moly. Pay attention to the seating position, you still need to be able to drive the car. Mount the rear axle in double shear, use the correct grade bolts on the rearend, and use an anti rotation device. Make sure theres ample cage clearance to your head when seated, suited, belted and with a helmet on. Make sure you have the proper front end geometry, to avoid bump steer and ensure it's stable at speed. Above all buy the plans, it's too much work and cost to go your own route only to build a car that has no future other than RWYB or that isn't safe.

    On the motor the v6 is limited. If you build your car around an under powered lump now, it'll be more work later when you work it out for yourself. I ran 13.01 with an Essex and manual box, fun for one season then went to a Rover. Pick up a cheap cut out Chevy with a glide or th350, much more scaleable in terms of development. A Rover will get you down into the 12's, poss 11's, but they're weak and £££ to tune. Go for an autobox. Manual is fun but you'll end up breaking diff's, clutches and shafts,plus an auto will be quicker and easier to shift ina tight cockpit. Four gearchanges in a 1/4 mile even lightening quick at .25 of a second is still 1 second. Auto box is half that.

    Good luck with your build, feel free to ask any questions, and get yourself joined up to the Wild Bunch, lots of knowledgeable people and resource who can help you.
    Last edited by WB54; 02-12-2009 at 09:13.

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  3. #22
    Mopars and Gassers Ivor's Avatar
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    What a fantastic reply. Following that advice and good sense will provide a brilliant grounding in the sport.

  4. #23
    tug
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    Agree with Sid I do like those late 50s style diggers, have also seen those chassis on e-bay got me thinking as well, however as they could fail (I suppose) scrutiny at normal events, where could this style of car be raced? I have seen in the States and "down under" the HA/GR classes what regulations do they run under? I wouldn't like to spend lots of hard earned cash to find out you could only run at a couple of events a year.
    Wonder what the ruling are regarding running an open topped sports car/rod/convertable??

    Will have to get a copy of the current rule book!!!

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  6. #24
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    You need to separate MSA Drag Racing from RWYB. MSA sanctioned events are held under MSA permits. The classes must comply to the MSA Blue Book for construction which adopt SFI chassis / cage specs.

    Outside of MSA event's, you can pretty much run whatever you like as long as it is deemed safe for the speed you intend to go by the scruntineer at the track, ie don't turn up with a fuel funny car made from exhaust tubing and expect to tun it wearing a pair of shorts...logic should prevail.

    The Wild Bunch caters for both types of vehicle. We run MSA events and RWYB events to cater for cars which want to run in national competition and those that don't or can't. The beauty of the Wild Bunch is that the points are structed so neither the MSA or RWYB cars have an advantage, you have an equal chance of winning a championship. People will generally build or aspire to build a chassis to SFI tag as it gives the car resale value and enables you to compete in MSA meetings in the future.

    If you want to build a car from the outset which is true to older chassis designs, theres ample events during the year to run at, ie Hot Rod Drags, Nostalgia's and all the WB RWYB events.

  7. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by WB54 View Post
    cheers for the kind words Sid, we had a lot of fun with the slingshot. We ran the V6 for 1 season and to be honest they're pretty limited in terms of development. We eventually hoiked it out and stuck a Rover in there.
    And you're right mate, there is no known cure....on our fifth season and best to date is an 8.49 at 152mph, all I wanted was a little slingshot !.

    To the young lad building the slinghot. Do yourself a favour and get hold of the SFI plans. Theres no big secret about how to build a chassis that will tag. It's just tube thickness and tube placement. The skill comes with building a balanced chassis, well proportioned and most importantly safe. Not being funny but there is some ugly cars out there that have tagged as they are safe, just ugly.....so use the right materials and construction. No need to CAD this or that, the plans are already there, why re-invent the wheel ?

    Big things for your build, use the correct grade CDS steel, have the bends done for you on a draw round mandrel bender. Make sure the chassis is built on a jig, properly square and unable to move whilst welding. MIG is fine for steel, tig for moly. Pay attention to the seating position, you still need to be able to drive the car. Mount the rear axle in double shear, use the correct grade bolts on the rearend, and use an anti rotation device. Make sure theres ample cage clearance to your head when seated, suited, belted and with a helmet on. Make sure you have the proper front end geometry, to avoid bump steer and ensure it's stable at speed. Above all buy the plans, it's too much work and cost to go your own route only to build a car that has no future other than RWYB or that isn't safe.

    On the motor the v6 is limited. If you build your car around an under powered lump now, it'll be more work later when you work it out for yourself. I ran 13.01 with an Essex and manual box, fun for one season then went to a Rover. Pick up a cheap cut out Chevy with a glide or th350, much more scaleable in terms of development. A Rover will get you down into the 12's, poss 11's, but they're weak and £££ to tune. Go for an autobox. Manual is fun but you'll end up breaking diff's, clutches and shafts,plus an auto will be quicker and easier to shift ina tight cockpit. Four gearchanges in a 1/4 mile even lightening quick at .25 of a second is still 1 second. Auto box is half that.

    Good luck with your build, feel free to ask any questions, and get yourself joined up to the Wild Bunch, lots of knowledgeable people and resource who can help you.
    Hiya mate, hes a school lad still on a budget..if he gets cash and we build it, he wants it styled like this:



    We'l build a chassis based on a pop chassis(dimension wise). box section chasiss, a simple hoop etc...dont no about beam axle set ups though on the front as they can be pricey, just using parts that are locally available if this project is carried out. possibly a viva front clip up front? Not in proper slingshot style but a simple cheap budget way. This dragster will not go into competition, but rwyb's. If i felt what we built was dangerous, he wouldnt race it. When a build thread starts (when he clears his garage out and gets money) safety ideas will all be taken into consideration, as long as a very budget nostalgia style is kept. he likes the old stuff like me haha
    When the flag drops, the bullshit stops.

  8. #26
    Official Drag Addict.... BRIT DIGGER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThomasHarris View Post
    Hiya mate, hes a school lad still on a budget..if he gets cash and we build it, he wants it styled like this:

    ........... "possibly a viva front clip up front?"
    youll struggle to find one of them from a 60s car..................

    use a stock pop one?... there possibly cheaper and easier to find..

    Sid.
    DRAG RACING IS A DISEASE FOR WHICH THERE IS NO KNOWN CURE.

    Oddlot Drag Racing Team....
    ............."havin fun is usual"

  9. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRIT DIGGER View Post
    youll struggle to find one of them from a 60s car..................

    use a stock pop one?... there possibly cheaper and easier to find..

    Sid.
    haha i no that, but its a simple option aint it, as long as its sorta styled like a 60's car its all good.

    and if one comes along, will do ..theres a yard with a few classics here in birmingham we can hopefully scrounge some stuff off.
    Last edited by ThomasHarris; 02-12-2009 at 17:10.
    When the flag drops, the bullshit stops.

  10. #28
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    Good luck with your build; when you start from scratch you'll find lots of things that aren't quite right and you will make changes and develop it, from event to event and season to season if you stick with it. Back in the day, there wasn't the bank of knowledge around then, people would use whatever they could easily lay there hands on, rather than as today ordering parts from a speed shop, but there were places you could go if you had the readies, such as dragster developments( Alan Herridge and John Harrison). As for V6, you have one, unless you can do a swop with someone, use it; yes its a heavy block but speed parts can be picked up on fleabay, or at breakers, and they can certainly be made to go- photo shows Tony Anderson who developed his over several years, eventually ran low tens, with street tyres(slicks not commonly available then), direct drive, blower from a breakers off a Commer diesel truck, here in '71.



    and heres Dicky Jarman with his V4, which he later dropped in a V6


  11. #29
    Official RnS Addict philhrc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WB54 View Post

    The Wild Bunch caters for both types of vehicle. We run MSA events and RWYB events to cater for cars which want to run in national competition and those that don't or can't. The beauty of the Wild Bunch is that the points are structed so neither the MSA or RWYB cars have an advantage, you have an equal chance of winning a championship. People will generally build or aspire to build a chassis to SFI tag as it gives the car resale value and enables you to compete in MSA meetings in the future.
    that sounds like the perfect race series , makes it pretty even on a cash and spare time level ..


  12. #30
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThomasHarris View Post
    Hiya mate, hes a school lad still on a budget..if he gets cash and we build it, he wants it styled like this:



    We'l build a chassis based on a pop chassis(dimension wise). box section chasiss, a simple hoop etc...dont no about beam axle set ups though on the front as they can be pricey, just using parts that are locally available if this project is carried out. possibly a viva front clip up front? Not in proper slingshot style but a simple cheap budget way. This dragster will not go into competition, but rwyb's. If i felt what we built was dangerous, he wouldnt race it. When a build thread starts (when he clears his garage out and gets money) safety ideas will all be taken into consideration, as long as a very budget nostalgia style is kept. he likes the old stuff like me haha
    Your best bet is to pick up either a pop or model Y front axle complete. they do come up for sale reasonably cheap. Mount it suicide style and build the caster angle into the mount, then use the transverse set up complete, works really well. On the rearend, you could use the little sherpa set up, stock axles are easilly shortened without resplining.

    I know you want the old timey look, but I hope your planning more of a cage than the roll over bar in the pic, that offers little to no protection, you'll be surprised how quick it'll be, my slingshot was running 112mph with the V6, plenty quick in a small car.

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