My 55 4 door recommissioning started today.

**20vT_pop** · 12-10-2012 20:47

Hi my 55 4 door arrived today after a long wait, I have been collecting parts for the last 3 months awaiting it's arrival. I am going to get it MOT'ed first then get it registered.

Then the fun begins, I had a bit of a look around it and it seems there is little rust in it mainly confined to both the rear doors at the bottom rear where there are a few bubbles of rust and the headlight brows where there is some filler repairs.

Front and rear wings have had their fair share of parking by ear and it has had a minor biff up the rear under the lights and not repaired very well so that all needs strightening and sorting so the lights fit perfectly again.

I ripped the rubber mats out of the inside and the boot removed the rear seat hoovered up the inevitable rat droppings and nest inside the rear seat, inspected the floor where there is just some flakey surface rust. In the boot under the mat no rust not even any surface up under the parcel shelf no rust. I have been looking at all the Chevy restorations everybody is doing so I have gained knowledge where they rust because of your builds, many thanks for that.

The o/s/r rear door lock doesn't work from outside, and the n/s/r door doesn't work at all so that needs looking at, it had aftermarket air-con fitted which I removed as it was a hideous add on even though it was standing for 10 years, when I disconnected it it was still pressurized with refrigerant

the problem I have is I have ordered a Vintage Air air-con kit and you have to use the original heater levers and with the kit I removed it doesn't use the factory lever assembly, it's got a blanking plate with a heater switch in it's place.

If anyone has the original 55 heater dash controls and are selling them I would be very interested

I don't need any cables etc as the Vintage Air kit has electric servo units that attach to them.

My plan after getting it legal is: -
Remove chassis check over for straightness make a tube rear shock bar and make some mounts for the rear anti roll bar on the chassis as I don't like the ones that came with the kit, also make some brackets on the axle for the roll bar as I don't like the way they have a big U clamp holding it on, I'm just a bit fussy with that stuff. Make some mount for the front anti roll bar and weld them on and fabricate some lower wishbone roll bar brackets and weld them on as again I don't like the ones with the kit.

Sandblast the chassis then etch and paint as no money available for powder coating

rebuild the chassis with all new urethane bushes fit dropped spindles and 1" lowered springs, all new ball joints and steering bushes and rod ends, disc brakes, renew every part of the rear brakes apart from back plates, make new brake pipes, route new piping for dual circuit brakes, servo, make and reroute fuel pipe outside chassis rails away from the dual exhausts fit new hoses, fit new rear leaf springs standard height, get some new adjustable Pro-Tech shocks made to correct length bump and rebound, and finally a CPP power steering box and make a new steering column shorter than the standard one as it comes too far back in the car for me.

Wheels are going to be Cragar 8 x 17 for the rear and 7 x 17 for the front with a slight rubber and suspension rake, also It will give me 5deg caster as it appears that they don't have any, and with a rake on the car it will go negative caster which will be awful to drive at speed. I don't want to go tubular top wishbones as I can't justify the price especially with the front suspension geometry on the front of the Tri Chevy's being wrong due to the placement of the top wishbone inner pivot being several inches to high for correct geometry, if it addressed that problem then I would probably go for it.

Modify the bench seat to go back further as fully back it's not far enough back for my liking and get a smaller steering wheel. I have also got a Ciadella full interior kit with custom door panels in materials and colour of my choice on it's way to me right now, I ordered this from them after recommendations from your good selves on here and the FB Chevy page thanks to Alan for his time and info.

I am making a rotisserie with dimensions that Peppershaker gave to me thanks mate

so I can sand blast the underneath off, once the chassis is done then it will get the treatment etch primer stonechip and full spray job underside and bulkhead prepared and painted, then fitted back to the completed chassis and aligned for the body repairs and panel bashing to go ahead, still it must be getting boring if anyone is still reading this so I will stick some pictures on from today's delivery if anyone is interested.

Rgds John

**Plumpcars** · 12-10-2012 21:08

I'm interested but you know that anyway! Glad it's working out for you John.

**Dr.Feelgood** · 12-10-2012 21:09

good luck with it, John

Bob will be pleased to see another 55

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/...870793d39e.jpg

**Zody** · 12-10-2012 22:51

Looks real nice John...bet your well pleased it's home now...this is where all the fun starts

You will love working on Tri 5's there's so many nuts & bolts it's almost unreal

**57peppershaker** · 13-10-2012 08:47

Looks hell of a lot better than what I started with John !

Looks good & we are all very interested. Congrats on getting it home.

**20vT_pop** · 13-10-2012 13:17

Cheers Chaps was a good day yesterday, just getting it MOTable as I have booked it for 08:00 Tuesday morning

John

**English Impala** · 13-10-2012 15:22

Its tight down the side of the house! I've gone a very similar route with my 57 Ford, theres nothing wrong with not powder coating the chassis, paint is easier to touch up and flexes with the chassis.