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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So here we go, build thread for my newest project.
Having been racing since 2004, we've had significant investment in our race set up and to be honest it had all got a bit much. With a nipper on the way I decided to sell the Altered, take some time out and see what being a dad was all about.
It took all of 3 months after my son was born, to decide I needed to go racing again and a plan was formed with my pal Dean to build a car between us. I also wanted to build something for the road, a quick project so I'd have something to cruise in over the summer.

I wanted a Mk1 Escort but prices we're silly for good pre 72 cars. So I settled on a 100E as a decent alternative, thinking a good cheap solid base would be an easy enough to drop a pinto into.....pretty wrong on that one but anyway....having done my research the best car I could use a donor was 2.0 Capri. An unfinished project was purchased that was donating, struts, brakes, column, engine, gearbox, stalks, rad, exhaust, wheels and rear drums. This turned out to be a good move as I got loads of bits, like the lower column bush, pedal box, throttle cable, clutch cable and loads of other small but handy bits.

The rear axle, fuel tank, bonnet, master cylinder and some other small bits we're sold off. As a bonus the car had £40 worth of juice in it to. Once the shell was stripped it was scrapped
I then bought this



On the whole it was complete, had an MOT and was bought minus engine and box for £800. I collected it from Derby, dropped it home and then got on with the job of planning the project.
Various conversion kits we've considered but I decided to do for the Alachi kit. This was tube cross member, extended rack, offset mounts etc. I ordered, lowered blocks, Spax rear shocks, roll cage, tramp bars, bulkhead and tunnel pretty much everything I needed
First job was to strip the front end



Then cut out the bulkhead and mock up Alachi kit



Tunnel cut out, no plasma here, grinder and a face full of sparks



Engine and box dropped in, top of the bulkhead needs a notch to remove the rocker cover



Had a few problems along the way. The tunnel supplied was the wrong angle and shape and needed re-folding. The bulkhead recess needed re-shaping. The gearbox cross member was about 5mm out, this needed cutting and sleeving to extend it. Tube cross member is an Escort item with two 1" spacers. This works, it all bolts up, but it leaves a 5mm gap between the member and the 1"spacer box section. The spacer is also made of very thin wall and not really up to the job. The cross member holes we're also 4-5mm off and had to be elongated. Overall, I wouldn't recommend the kit; it's expensive for what it is.
With the front sheet metal off, it's apparent the shells not as solid as it appeared. Having checked it over in all the usual places, 100E's tend to all go in the same places.

The strut tops are in shit order, not decided what I'm going to do yet, restore it using original panels from ex-Pressed or make something up to Escort geometry?



In the background, now the weather turned manky, I've been sorting out the suspension. The struts have been rebuilt as coilovers using Gaz gold inserts and 225lb springs. Rearend blasted up, axle saddles removed and refabricated to fit 100E springs. Leaf springs have been blasted, painted and assembled. M16 callipers stripped, blasted and are in the process of being painted and refurbed with new pistons, seal and hoses. The callipers are being spaced to use 2.8i vented discs
Also had the RS / Laser 4 spokes blasted which was a mistake really as they're been etched and will need a lot of work to make good

So that's where I am to date, about 3-4months or occasional evenings and about 4 Saturdays....just need time,money and sunshine...the car is now packed away for the winter just in time to start on the new race car which all being well arrives Saturday next week
 

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thats alot of work youv`e done phil.i only see a 100e shaped tarpalling a couple of months ago and wanted to have a look .roll on the sunshine time and money:tup:good luck with your new race car as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thats alot of work youv`e done phil.i only see a 100e shaped tarpalling a couple of months ago and wanted to have a look .roll on the sunshine time and money:tup:good luck with your new race car as well
cheers fella, I took on more than I should have really,run out of money already so just got to do the donkey work, stripping and prepping over the winter.
 

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nice 100e mate, i bought one of those alachi kits for my project, had all the same problems as you with the gearbox tunnel etc, nightmare!! the best one was when i assembled the front end and the steering rack gaiter fouled on the 1inch box section spacers! couldnt f**king believe it! to be fair to him he did then replace the crossmember for one which now is correct, but for the price of the kit you'd expect it to be spot one from the word go!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Update on my 100e project. Not been making much progress as the dragsters taken precedence. I've put the 100e and all the kit I've collected for sale as I'd let it all go if somebody wanted it all as a project because I need to focus on one or the other, but until then I'll just crack on doing bits.

Using the Alachi kit, it was apparent the front cross member adapters we're too thin to be of any use. The box section in the kit is 25mm 1.5mm box using only 4 bolts either side. In my opinion this insufficient. These we're re-made using 30 x 50mm, 3mm box. This prompted me to drill a pilot into the Alachi gearbox mount and the tubing was no thicker than exhaust tubing, 1.5mm max? The Alachi crossmember also puts the gearbox too high up in the tunnel, leaving only 1in or so which isn't good enough as the prop will be too close and also interfere with any handbrake mechanism. So I cut it all up, dropped the box then welded up a new cross member that actually fit using 30x50mm, 3mm box. I added spreader plates and crush sleeves to spread the weight, something the "kit" doesn't include, but should

The tubular front cross member supplied also has issues with the steering rack fouling a pinto sump. Apparently you need to use an RS alloy sump, would have been nice to know when buying the kit but hey ho. Dropping the box has helped slightly but it looks like the sump has to be cut or notched.

Picked up some 14 x 6 Minilights. I'd been mulling over 15" or 13's. 13's look a little lost unless you drop it low enough. 15's with 45's look good but with 225lb springs and spherical top mounts; I felt I needed more sidewall. These rims came up as a set of 5 with brand new 60 profile Yokos. I know they're a bit belly button but Ford rims are a bit limited. I think Revo's, Mini or Superlight really suit a 100E. I've mocked them up at the approximate height and I like them.



With regards to the shell, still undecided if I'll get it blasted or just weld it up and smoke it about as is Thinking of getting a pot blaster and just doing isolated areas at a time then repair the sections ?
Anyway hope to have it rolling in the next few weeks, will post more updates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Any progress on this one?
not as much as I'd like but here goes

- Both front wings have lower dog leg repair panel fitted

- Finished gearbox mounts

- Built up rear axle, diff, brakes shafts

- Managed to buy SteveW's Old Ford Auto front end and 105e rear axle set up. I wasn't impressed with the Alachi stuff and had planned to sort it with escort parts, buying this kit means it just bolts in, again time being scarce its the easiest and quickest option

- Fitting a pinto with escort front end needs an RS2000 sump. They go for £150-200 at the minute, so I thought I'd mod my own;





only leaks in 3 places, couldn't finish as I ran out of Argon, typical when I only just went today to get another bottle of Arg/CO2 for my MIG. Sump holds about 3L, needs a wing on each side to restore the 3.75L capacity but I'm waiting until I can check clearance for clutch cable and starter.

Also bought these today, set of ZX6R carbs with 38mm chokes on an alloy manifold. Just need a facet pump and regulator to run them, will be running an RS2000 cast exhaust manifold, through a cherry bomb, so with a FR34 cam, the carb and a straight through system it should sound the bollox on full chat..



haven't even started the welding, spoke to Wayne (nobody) about maybe ding it and came to the conclusion it's prob a bigger job than I can afford to farm out, so I'll put it on the back burner and do it next year.

Probably the last update for this year as we have another baby due any day now..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Small update, took some time off work to work on the 100E pop. Because I swapped from the Alachi kit to the Old Ford Auto's kit, it's meant using RS2000 mounts won't work as the gearbox mount is too far back. I'd already re-made the gearbox mount so I bit the bullet and made new engine mounts. Rubbers are from a V8 range rover, mount have a 10mm captive nut inside, now rock solid with no movement, should clear the steering shaft and downpipe well



TIG'd them together, my TIG welding is getting better but I'm getting to the point where I could really do with a foot pedal to feather off the heat towards the end of the weld, trying to feather the heat with the torch switch and slope down affects my torch angle. Anyone got a cheap recommendation ?

Now the motor is properly mounted I can put it away for the winter and focus on the slingshot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Little update, Jon from Classic Ford Mag got in touch and asked if he could do a "Grafters" feature on my 100E. The photoshoot was actually good fun and the kick in the arse I needed to mock it all up and check for issues before welding and paint.

The 185/60/14 tyres on the car rubbed on the front, a 3mm wheel spacer solved this, but I may drop the front tyre size dow to 175/50/14 if I can for a little more clearance all round.

The other issue was the rear axle bearings, looks like I have Escort bearings when I need Cortina / 105e for this case. I can buy cortina /105e bearings for about £40 or hold out for another axle case. Given I have new Escort bearings, I reckon I'll look for another axle case.

The mag feature is in the Feb 2014 edition of Classic Ford, thanks to Jon Hill (Cragarsarecool) for the feature and the much needed boost of enthusiasm.
 

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Nice one mate , remember when we did Aaron's pinto powered 100e grey one in , classic ford mag.
Certainly pushes you in the right direction
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Long time since I updated this thread, but I had a week booked off work and decided get stuck into the welding.



This is what was lurking under the wings. Amazing to think this car actually had an MOT, with the strut top so rotten it close to punching through.



The paper thin strut top was hiding a rotten spring seat. Getting the drop panels out was hard work, trying to find spot welds buried in rust and underseal, wire wheel seem to just melt and smear it. I made a jig to locate the strut holes and toyed with replacing the complete top section, but after grinding it back to bright sound metal I decide to butt weld in a repair in 3mm steel. The centre hole wasn't replaced as my top mounts don't protrude and I'll be running a strut brace anyway, I may fill it in completely before final welding.



With the spring seat repaired I removed the rest of the strut top panel, drilling out two dozen spot welds. There always seems to be a random spot weld hidden away. With all the rot out, I mocked up the new drop panel and strut top panel. These are expressed panels, and the fit it good.



All told this was about a day's work. I'll cut out what I can see needs repairing, then the whole car will be blasted back to bare metal. I find it hard to "see" what need replacing, most of the flanges are blown and under sronechip / underseal. It's tempting to cut it all out but I don't want to lose reference points. Rain stopped play, so final welding tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK so back on the OSF strut top, spent some considerable time getting it all positioned correctly, then I plug welded it in. I also replaced around 2" of the engine bay side panel. Whilst grinding down the spot welds it threatened rain again so I chucked some primer on just in case.



Some more grinding, dolly work and filler to complete but overall I'm happy with how it came out, most importantly it's now structurally sound
Next I threw the strut back in, just so it's out the way, holes in strut tops needed to be drilled out bigger



Some other jobs I got done were the wing and front panel flanges. Both were too far gone to just add a strip off steel, there just wasn't an edge to weld to. Using a shrinker, I formed the front panel end and butt welded it in.



The wing panel was more difficult. I had bought a panel from expressed panels for this but it turned out to be warped and got sent back. Again I used my shrinker to form the panel but this time the bend was more extreme and the curvature of the wing made it difficult to lose material without deforming the straight flange. I sorted this by clamping the flange to a piece of 6mm plate and then shrunk the curved part. This was butt welded in but was too short so I'll have to add a piece. I also blew through in places as I TIG'd this in and haven't quite got the hang of butt welding thin steel with a gap.



Hopefully I'll get the other strut done this year but I fear she might be going back under cover till the spring as I don't have much time now before Xmas.
 
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