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These look okay and TBH are so squished the beads are touching so a tube might be the only way to inflate them!!
Good days work, every thing just flowed . Hoop fitted and seat belt mounts made, have a good 6ins headroom. Back on the panel van tomorrow,
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just a thought and i've done this so it works if you're not in a rush. put a tube in each tyre off the rim and inflate 'til the beads are way too far apart, like twice the width of your wheels or more. leave them for a week or more and they seem to 'take a set', the reason the beads are currently touching is they've been in a stack of however many and squashed flat. when you remove the tube from each tyre immediately fit to the wheel and inflate.
if that won't work then fit and inflate with tubes, let the air out and break the short (usually front) bead side and wrangle the tube back out. you can now push the wheel into the tyre with no fear of the rear bead coming off of it's seat.
i did nearly 2 years as a tyre fitter so learnt a few tricks, although i never tried the lighter gas in the tyre lit with a flame to explode the tyre onto the beads.
neil.
 

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Yes I know all the tricks after 50 years on the spanners. The Weller rims are not tubeless , no bead locks and dip where the rim is welded so will have tubes to be safe.
 

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Adaptors fit spot on and even found 3 wheel nuts that fit , waiting for tubes now but have a rubber tyre hammer and first bead went on fine. Welded in the panels between B post and arch then etch primed it all, after making sure the compressor cleared fuel filler pipe I gave it all a good 2coats of black enamel on the mounting plate and same for battery tray.
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That welding looks bloody rough!!! Cant be bothered to grind it down as its hidden and some will get welded from the under side , well thats if the welder plays ball . Sometimes have to have to much wire speed to get it to work and that gives the "lumpy" weld.
 

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the bits turned up to make master brake reservoir remote, had the container on the shelf as it was the one that came with the disc brake kit for the bus and bugger me the cap with level sensor from the Omega fits!! The square one is a single circuit beetle one , a lot cheaper than any I could find elsewhere . Still need some 12mm to 8mm reducers and 4ins of brake fluid proof pipe to connect to brake.
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Splitting my time between Austin and panel van , made the bar to go between strut towers . Just need to work out how to fit it! Inner tubes and cans of black paint on there way so plenty to do then .
 

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Well the top rad mount made, its not strong enough for a strut brace but then any tube strong enough cant be bent tight so it fits around engine. Found the clock mirror whilst looking for other stuff so tried to see if it would work, stripped it apart and checked it with meter. Looks like the coil for magnet is okay
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and got the light working but no go on clock.
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Hedgehog time, TBH ran out of clamps!! Thats both sides glued on after painting the inner sill /roll over bar in rattle can black. Had a sudden inspiration on how to get the panels to clamp to arches , have some display hangers that fit in peg board so hooked them into the spat fastener holes and ratchet strapped across. Result, had to wait hours for the first side to go off so I had enough clamps for the other.
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Its a 2 part , so hard to work the cartridge gun my wrist is buggered. Got it of the bay from wayside adhesives, used it on my VW panel van to fit rear arch repair panel as its a long flat panel and hard to weld without distortion. Will use it to repair the ali bits as cant alloy weld.
 

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So after dehedgehogging the panels and putting all the clamps back on tool board I fitted the tyres and inner tubes, fitting the wheels on and dropping lift down found some bump steer. That will be sorted when body removed from chassis, tried a wing on and then front valance , not as low as my measurements made it out to be, thats okay as its tight to wing. As I thought the wishbone needs shortening by an inch or so, might have to radius the arch as well. Welded the roof insert frame back together and ribs that go from rear arch to body sides . Pics of wheel/arch clearance , full drop (had to jack bottom wishbone to get full bag compress as lift was fully down and now 20mm under tyre) then 5ins under sill so normal ride . Nothing I wasnt expecting
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That’s a big plus in my book getting the car on it’s wheels and seeing what it’s going to look like on the road ,well done that man.
 

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Box of bits came yesterday, started to make swirl pot from a 4ins water/inter cooler pipe . Had to split it to get fuel pump to sit in but it works , now just need someone to weld it into tank through the 8ins opening ------
Bottom rad hose made up , waiting on top hose bits . Need longer studs for rear wheels , must learn to add up as a miss measurement means they need to be 20mm longer. Still if I get different wheels for the rear they will be fine without the 20mm spacers . Next mission is getting the body off chassis as the rear wheels are narrower than the lift so cant roll the chassis out easily from underneath as planned with out some cunning plan or 8 strong mates.
 

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Have been working on the bus the last few days but stuck waiting for sewing machine needles so today went down the unit . Ended up taking all the bits off the body and with some axle stands under sills dropped chassis down , had to take the rear axle/Didion tube out so chassis will clear lift and stands. Next mission is move all the stuff (welder, bead roller, and bender etc ) so I can roll chassis out and put it along side body. Back to making seat covers for bus for the next few days----------
 
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