Hi Just a quick update. it was Christmas day in my shop today!
My engine was delivered by the engine Builder I work closely with on LS conversions (Kyle) he has worked his magic and built me a custom LS1 with a long list of uprated internals. As a result the motor was dyno`d on Tim Adams race engines dyno (kyles buddy) and it is producing 445lbs/ft. of torque and 491.8 hp.
this awesome bit of kit is going into the C10 and is run on a Canems custom loom that will allow all manner of tweaks to be performed when the pick up is finished in June.
I will be strengthening the chassis to cope with this monster over the christmas period.
Hi, I am putting a race built manual shifting 700r4 with a full reverse pattern installed. and I will be running a 12 bolt with eaton posi on 3:73 with 30 spline half shafts and sending it all to the floor via 20 " rubber. if the box was left in auto I would be bogging the engine round town (so now I can keep it in 3rd and just keep the revs up a little)
Just a quick update on this years progress (yesterday and today).
I have decided to box the chassis in and then later will install a series of CDS tube cross braces to further strengthen the chassis to ensure I get the power down.
I cut some hardboard templates and then cut some 4mm thick J275 carbon steel plate, I then cut the holes in the boxing plates to ensure I wasn't putting too much weight on the chassis and also to ensure I could get the powder coating redone (also easier to re-route all my wiring)
next job was to check all the geometry to ensure it was all in line and equal and then tack the plates in place. another re-check was conducted with a rotating laser (really good level floor in the workshop but decided to check any way)
used the rotating laser to make sure the welding was not going to distort the chassis and also used a set of rack clamps in conjunction with a load of packing and dead weights to keep it still.
then the hard bit started, I decided to fully tig weld the open corner joint but used step and back welding techniques to minimise the distortion potential.
had to wait for welds to cool down and the chassis was rotated 6 times and reloaded with dead weights before the welding was complete.
a double check with the laser shows that it has hardly moved (coupe of millimetres over the full length)msl:
will now be having a discussion with a few guys in work (metallurgist and materials engineer) to see if it would be beneficial to peen the welds to relieve the residual stress or let it stay stressed to increase rigidity.
the upside is that I will be leaving the original riveted cross braces in place and will be bolting and pinning all the other braces where possible.
next on the agenda is to fabricate the front arms from CDS tube then build the chassis up, fit the body and then fabricate custom motor mounts to get the LS and trans are far back into the chassis as the body will allow.
I am hatching a plan to show the chassis work with bit of tricky engineering that allows me fold the bed up in two halves via a central hinged support that runs the length of the bed with a series of pneumatic cylinders and latches that secure it when its pootling along.
This will then be allow the bed to fold up and show the entire under carriage and also let me access all the bits underneath like fuel cell air compressor and tanks etc.
I spent all yesterday radiussing and blending the welds (no metal loss just blend slight ripples in the tig weld and any raised points) then its back off to powder coating AGAIN!
pulled my back (PUTTING MY OVERALLS ON OF ALL THINGS) so having a day off recuperating
I was going to suggest a tipper type bed to show off your handiwork, but obviously that's not wild enough.
I can just about envisage your idea, but I'm guessing I'll be way off what it will eventually look like.
here is the latest progress on my tailgate mods.
I wanted to remove the chains but still keep a bit of an industrial pick up look that would make any noise during driving and would cause any paint damage (the wire is clear sleeved).
so I went with a set of seat belt latches but then copied everything in polished 316l so all moving parts didn't need painting.
this involved firstly involved replacing the tailgate lower bearing (which was metal to metal and worn so this would hurt the paint straight away) with a stainless steel pivot (just replicated the old set up) but installed an oilite bush so the stainless parts where not in contact and then gall and seize up.
I then went about filling all the original holes and gaps with metal and flush tig welded.
few more Pics on what I have been up to.
body is full bare metal and coated with PPG selemix epoxy primer (seals the bare metal and gives me time to do the final mods before doing any fine finishing)
put a new bulkhead in place that will provide a space for the battery and air suspension pumps and reservoir. plus a bit for tools and a jack. shortens the bed a bit but should add to the look.
the wheels are 20s rears and 18s front. putting a heap of new kit into this including a very special transmission that if it comes off will be the first one into a 60s truck (will upload some pics when its fitted)
couple of pictures of this afternoon progress. set the bed and body down on the chassis and fitted the long tube stainless headers on the LS1. Now got to mock this up to get the motor as low as possible in the chassis (but careful to still maintain prop angle etc) and as far back as it will go without sectioning the bulkhead or tunnel.
this is all done on my own and only on very rare occasions doe I ask one of my sons to give me a hand. (its a different story when the final assembly happens as I want all three of my sons to understand how it all goes together as they will be the owners someday (don't sell any cars or trucks I do)
I had a good look at the tubular upper and lower A arms that CPP and others sell and wasn't impressed with the build quality (they are mig welded and the welds are not full penetration) so I decided to make my own and make them suit the air ride I am fitting. I have made them from heavy wall CDS tube and they are a 1lb lighter than the original pressed steel units but analysis of both types via ANSYS software shows theses are 80% stronger. I have slightly re-engineered them so they have 4 degrees extra caster for more stability at higher speed.
will finish up welding the shock mount on the lower arms and the entire top arms tomorrow.
I made up jigs to copy these and can therefore produce more of them if people want them.
didn't expect his question. but here goes.
a urethane would be the best for clear (thinned Upol raptor??)as epoxy suffers from UVA. but I haven't got a clue as for the price. as you are looking for a clear you need to consider UVA UVB with regards to potential clouding of the clear coat, so get some reassurance or guarantee from the manufacturer. and sure is eggs are eggs they will state all kinds of application conditions so make sure you document and record all of your parameters such as temperature, humidity, air pressure, film thickness recordings etc.... if you want to make the manufacturer pay for any faults.
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