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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

SBC 350 base engine, thermostat installed is 160 degrees.

I have an adjustable thermostat switch which at present cuts in around 205 to 210 degrees and cust out again about 175 - 180 ish.

Should I have the setting lower? I get heat build up under the bonnet and the fuel perculates when its been stopped for a few minutes, start up and accelerate hard and it just dies (engine still ticks over).

I was thinking of taking the thermostat out completly but I dont see that helping really.

Ideas??

TrOjAn
 

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is the fuel percolating in the carb or the pipes? if you have metal pipes try insulating them, also a phonolic spacer between carb and manifold might help if the carb is getting too hot.
 

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I'm a grown up drunk!
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Dont turn the fan setting too low as it may not shut down on normal driving,
On an engine with a 180 stat i normally set the fan to come on around 200 and off about 185 as most fan switches have about a 15 degree on-off window, that way the fan is off at normal driving around the 180 mark,

Also dont remove the stat, you need a constant temp for efficient running and the stat will help it warm up quicker,
a common misconception is by removing the stat helps it run cooler, the stat only controls the minimum running temperature,

Try fitting an insulator under the carb, that can sometimes cut down the fuel perculation problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies...

I have the 1" spacer under the carb which made a huge difference... I will change the fuel pipe routing as it is very close to the engine from the pump up.. I will also ower the fan temp set point a bit..

Will report back soon.. cheers,

TrOjAn
 

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is the 1" spacer aluminium or a plastic type? another thought, is there sufficient room for the air to escape from under the bonnet? could try raising the rear of the bonnet a little, even 1/4" will make a huge difference and not too noticeable
 

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Out of interest, seen as my (190) switch is turning on at 140 and need to replace it what switch do you have?

My current one has a probe poked through the rad, which presumably is now faulty and fancy an adjustable one.
I don't really want to disturb the hoses so another 'probe' one would be the ticket.

cheers
Jimbob
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
is the 1" spacer aluminium or a plastic type? another thought, is there sufficient room for the air to escape from under the bonnet? could try raising the rear of the bonnet a little, even 1/4" will make a huge difference and not too noticeable
The one on there now is the plastic type.. Im liking the airflow idea.. there is NO WHERE for the air to escape at the moment, I did think about putting in side louvres but the bonnets are so nice dont really want to cut them up.. as for the 1/4" idea, I like that.. which now leads me to think this could all be my fault :) I put some nice 1/4" foam seal all around the gap where the bonnet sits on the body work below the windscreen, Im now wondering if opening some gaps in that will let the hot air out.

Out of interest, seen as my (190) switch is turning on at 140 and need to replace it what switch do you have?

My current one has a probe poked through the rad, which presumably is now faulty and fancy an adjustable one.
I don't really want to disturb the hoses so another 'probe' one would be the ticket.

cheers
Jimbob
I bought a 14" fan kit off eBay, it came with the probe / adjustable switch. I left the original fan on as it worked but might try changing it to the new one in case thats more efficient.

This is just the probe / adjuster switch >>>>>http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-Thermostat-control-for-car-Electric-cooling-fans-/171182931496?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27db4c3e28

TrOjAn
 
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