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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Plodding along making the weld-in bushes for body/wing/running board mounts. It's not very exciting, sorry...

 

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My grandfather had one of these, good to see one being given a new life. Following with interest.
 

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Gathering up some of my thought processes;

This is being built to go through BIVA, so some compromises have to be made.
I'd disagree with that a bit. My pop passed BIVA and I did not compromise anywhere (unless you count side repeaters/foglamps as compromise?)

Your hinges with a bit of filing to radius them will most likely be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I'd disagree with that a bit. My pop passed BIVA and I did not compromise anywhere (unless you count side repeaters/foglamps as compromise?)

Your hinges with a bit of filing to radius them will most likely be fine.
It's mainly radius requirements that the original equipment won't meet. Things like bumpers- lots of non compliance. I could probably smooth most of them out, but it only takes 1 radius under 2.5mm! Same with the rear, I'd like to retain the rear luggage and spare wheel carrier (and wheel) but I've already assumed that meeting the rad requirements would be a task too far.
Headlamps, I'm happy to find new shells with modern lamps. The originals don't have enough bits left- having said that I could probably re-use the shells. They even have a mechanical dip mechanism that steers the light to the left with a solonoid. Slim chance of getting a good beam pattern!

All input appreciated, will give your thread a read. Thanks
 

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You might be suprised about some areas. Front bumper can exempt an awful lot of car from the radius testing.

There are permanent fixes and temporary ones. Permanent is best obviously, but some bits may require temporary remedies if they cannot be modified on a permanent basis. Bonded on or clamp on edge trims are perfectly acceptable for radius if necessary for example.
 

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As blackpop says the front bumper can save you a lot of work if you use/work it right

It saved me a lot of work anyway
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
As blackpop says the front bumper can save you a lot of work if you use/work it right

It saved me a lot of work anyway
This is all good info. I'm planning on fitting a compliant bumper anyway- partly because I'm putting the original bumper mounts onto my chassis.

Bully- I know I'd get the answer by reading the section of the manual- but what things did the bumper help with? I'm assuming it kept the cone from touching the A arms/suspension?
 

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Yes the bumper helps to keep the cone from the suspension /a arm's and all protrusions front or back of the car it just needs all the edges radius or as I have put a cover behind it something like on a Morris minor for example
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
rails kinked in at the rear and all tacked to the bottom rail. X brace/jig in place to check alignment. The rear pinched in a bit when I welded it- have to cut the tacks and open it out a touch.



It's all going to plan at the moment. More braces to make, then maybe I'll try joining the rails together. I can then start putting the A arm tabs on (still got to make the jig for that).
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
just a quick note on welded bushes- all of the bushes so far are only welded at the bottom. They butt up against the inside of the frame rail. Any bushes for seats/seatbelts need to be welded top and bottom. Not convinced that adds any stength, but that's the rule!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
Ok, todays worry subject- door hinges.
The rears are only attached to the wood frame. It's all in great condition, and original. But is it a substantial structure? It's been good enough for 89 years....
Any change would be grief as the body sheel metal is nailed to it. I might be able to back the wood with a metal strap and tie it into the inner rear arch. I dunno. Leave it alone?

I think in writing that I've answered my question. If it's possible to put some metal structure behind then I should...


and now I've read the BIVA section there's no specific mention of how the hinges mount. Some metal in there is probably still wise from a structural integrity point of view.
 

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My '28 Chevy has a wood framed body, but it mostly gets used on sunny Sundays, mixing with modern week day traffic doesn't feel too safe.

If I was building yours with access to a CNC mill, I would be making a steel frame to replace all the main wood frame, and maybe for the doors as well.

Then I would feel it was OK to take the grand kids for a spin.

You will need to have somewhere to hang your seatbelts off anyway, I don't have any as lap only straps are killers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
My '28 Chevy has a wood framed body, but it mostly gets used on sunny Sundays, mixing with modern week day traffic doesn't feel too safe.

If I was building yours with access to a CNC mill, I would be making a steel frame to replace all the main wood frame, and maybe for the doors as well.

Then I would feel it was OK to take the grand kids for a spin.

You will need to have somewhere to hang your seatbelts off anyway, I don't have any as lap only straps are killers.
Yep, I think I'll look at putting some extra structure in there- though I don't want to disturb the wood as it's all still good.
Seatbelts were an early headscratcher. Have gone with Ford B max seats as they have integral belts. In the rear I'll put in a braced hoop to provide belt mounts and generally add torsional stiffness.

Some side impact protection would be nice as well, so I'll have a think about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
One starts to think about theses things first time the wood starts creaking on twisty country lanes...
taken onboard and added to my list of things to think about. Will check the wood frame more and work out where I can add steel to back it up.
 
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