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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
rally design keep splined each end escort column shafts and metre lengths of tube that's a good fit so you can lengthen them. re biva, if it's welded and painted neat it won't be obvious that it's altered. and it's not altering a factory original austin part. as an example mk3/4 escort columns are welded at the ujs under the dash to get the needed offset.
just had a thought i seem to remember car builder solutions do a 400mm shaft, worth checking.
neil.
thanks, i'll look at both those options. Once I sit the mazda column in place I'll get a good idea of the length I need
 

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cool. also re laying the rack back to better the steering shaft routing, i know it means redoing something but i'd be inclined to do it now rather than have more issues with interference later. better to alter/redo one thing now than have multiple problems later. jmo.
neil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
rally design keep splined each end escort column shafts and metre lengths of tube that's a good fit so you can lengthen them. re biva, if it's welded and painted neat it won't be obvious that it's altered. and it's not altering a factory original austin part. as an example mk3/4 escort columns are welded at the ujs under the dash to get the needed offset.
just had a thought i seem to remember car builder solutions do a 400mm shaft, worth checking.
neil.
Car builder solutions had everything I needed. Double ended shaft 600mm, standard 9/16 UJ, and a 9/16--5/8 UJ. I'll use the mazda column upper and lower, and join those with the 9/16--5/8, then it's all ford. the 600mm shaft will be supported by a pillow bearing at one end.
I think it'll work, no science employed, this was done by waving a tape measure near the car.
 

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will you look at remounting the rack? or is that done and dusted?
neil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Pulled the Mazda column out and held it in place in the Austin. I'm now trying to find a compromise that gives me room for pedals, and somewhere to mount the speedo and other clocks. There's a biva rule that says The speedometer must be capable of being read at all times of the day or night, but their guidance notes also say the view cannot be obstructed. That can't be sensible. I mean, can i put it between the seats!? It'd be visable at all times...! or am I not allowed to move my head to see it?
Even moving it to the center of the car instead of behind the wheel might mean it's obscured from some angles by the wheel.

Seriously though, do I assume we use the forward vision template to assess driver eye position?
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
Finally saw a way through getting everything in place. Clocks couldn't go in front of me, and in the center of the car the speedo was obscured by the wheel. I could see the rev counter though. So, I recon I can rewire the dash to swap the speedo and revcounter, and then swap the facias over. I'll have to sort out new positions for idiot lights but it will give me visibility. Still enables me to retain the function of the mazda dash, and plug it all in to a standardish mazda loom.

right, a bit light on pictures as this doesn't photograph well.
Put 2 support hoops in, 1 under the dash and one lower down at the firewall. This gave me 2 points to hang the column.
The hoop at the A post replaces wood that was there, and gives the doors some proper metal to hang from.
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I'll cut off the old brackets when I pull it out to fully weld the new brackets. The bottom one is clamped at the moment to allow me to move it a bit if the pedals require.

Pedals next. I plan to have the servo hang inside the car on the firewall, with a remote reservoir. If I can use the mazda one and convert to remote reservoir that will do. Otherwise transit connect has potential.
 

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Master cylinder bore needs matching to brakes being used . What bore is the Mazda unit presuming you are using all Mazda stock brakes ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 · (Edited)
Master cylinder bore needs matching to brakes being used . What bore is the Mazda unit presuming you are using all Mazda stock brakes ?
You have a point there, I'll have to check. It would be nice to use the Mazda one, if I have the room I'll stare at it to see how I can remote the reservoir.

edit; So, carbuilder solutions do a brass thing that pushes into the rubber where the reservoir would go to enable you to remote it. It follows I should be able to turn one up for the Mazda M/C.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 · (Edited)
more progress this weekend.
Standard Mazda servo fitted, I have a slight concern that there's not enough room to remove the servo with the steering col in place. The cylinder is pretty close to the col bracket to get a decent pedal position. Will find out once I tack everything together and test assemble.

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yes the clutch master is upside down! Got a new one on order that will actually fit. It's just there to sort pedal positions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 · (Edited)
and the brake and clutch pedals hung. Such a major milestone deserves a lot more words, but a picture will have to do. Suprisingly this is all first-go metal. I assumed I'd have to do it wrong a few times to work out the right solution!

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I went with using standard Mazda pedals, now the action is reversed I'll need to add metal to the top. The pedal ratio will be preserved.
Side note, clutch master in wrong place. I hadn't accounted for the different pivot position and pedal ratio. Simple to move when I get the new one.
This is all hidden inside the exising box on the firewall. The firewall is sandwiched between the 2 plates you can see, and if it needs it I can brace back to the A pillar hoop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 · (Edited)
This is the inside. Plenty of room for sensible pedal positions. It's helped by the gearbox being fairly low down and small. Big tunnels eat into the foot space.

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Next job, get the firewall back in and see if everything will fit, and if the pedals have adequate free movement to the floor. Rather not have to mod the pedals or the toeboard.
Throttle will come later, i've made sure I have enough foot room for it but the actual mounting will be worked out after I've assembled everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
after a bit of reading I found a suggestion that the MX5 brake bias is affected if the ABS block is removed. But, the MX also came in a non-abs version. This has a proportioning valve as standard. So, I swapped over to the non-abs servo and proportioning valve. The added bonus is the servo is a bit shorter so I get enough clearance to remove it easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
I then tackled the rack, made up new mounts, filled in the bits I cut out for the first attempt.
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If you're eagle-eyed you'll notice the mount isn't square. The photo made it obvious, tacks cut, repositioned. All good now.
Next is to finally join the rack to the column. Might get a chance to get to that tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
one minor detour... the pedal position ended up pushing the seat back a bit. Which means the gear lever is too far forward. I might be going back to the standard non-modified shifter.
 
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