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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My mate has entered into the hotrod world with a V8 100e. He bought the car with gearbox problems (rover with GM180) and the car has a B&M prostick shifter in it. He has been going through various things on the box to establish the fault and asked me if the shifter works in the following pattern.
P
N
R
N
D
2

Is it supposed to have a neutral position between Park and reverse?

Cheers

Jeff
 

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The prostick in normal pattern is P R N D 2 1 - reverse pattern shift is P R N 1 2 3.

Assuming standard shift pattern from Park pull the trigger and pull into Reverse then trigger again into Neutral. Pull back through Drive, 2 then 1 without the trigger.

Going the other way its 1 into 2, trigger to D (breath..) Lift the locking pin shaped like an R, shift into Neutral, Trigger to Reverse and push forward to Park.

Not wishing to teach Granny to suck eggs but I found the shifter to be a bitch to use at first but am used to it now. Just have to remember when to use the trigger. Most autos Ive driven only require the trigger from P to R and D to N.

No auto box that I know of has Neutral next to Park, although I stand to be corrected.
 

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richard rawlplug
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do they make a pro stick to fit a gm 180...?????

would the cable throw be different as say trying to get a th400 shifter to work a tf 727..??
 

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Torments question is actually very relevant. Just been Jegs.com and they sell pro sticks for the following:

GM TH350, TH400, TH250, TH200, 700R4, 200-4R, 4L80E, 4L85E
Ford C4, C6, & AOD
Chrysler 66' & later Torqueflite A727 & A904

No GM180 on that list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cheers guys, this is all starting to make some sort of sense. I'll pass the info on and keep you posted on the progress :)
 

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I dont think there are any aftermarket shifters made for the GM 180 (as used in the late vitesse). The problem is likely to be that the travel of the cable given by the shifter does not argee with what is required by the g/box. I have heard of it being made to work though. It is very fiddley, make a lever for the input shaft on th box that allows the full range of movement given by the shifter, and the check the positions of each gear in the box (as you move the lever you will feel each gear as a detent click) agree acurately with the cable position given by the shifter. If they are all forward or back you can adjust cable, but if say one is fwd and another back you will have to modify gate in shifter (or try another)
Remember the shifter will hold the lever in the place it moves it to and not necessarily in gear. it may be between gears. You need to be able to disconnect the cable in each gear without any movement between the cable and the lever on the box
The shift pattern of the box is standard P R N D 2 1
Hope this helps and you understand my ramblings
PS Stu 460 is right, but the shifters normaly come with a selection of gate plates and gear box input levers to suit different models of box (350, 400, 700r4) and manufacturers( ford chevy mopar) and you assemble what you need and put he rest safe where you never find it if you need it
 

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surely you can lengthen or shorten the gearbox arm to suite?? I have a brand new in the box prostick for my C4 (wen the cars finished la la la) the new shifter comes with a mix of arms and brackets for various g box's and the only differenece is the lengths of the arms.
 

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If you go to jegs.com and find the pro stick you can download the manual which shows the arms and other bits and how to set the shifter up for the different boxes. You may be able to do a mix and match to suit the GM box you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've just been on the B&M website and waded thru a load of bumf and found a couple of diagrams showing how the shifter works. The Nuetral position that we are seeing between P and R is the reverse lock out, so that ties in with what we are seeing. We do seem to be short of one gear or location although we are unsure of what it is. We're gonna get the trade plates out tomorrow and try it up the road. We only have 2 forward gear selections, if it's D and 2 then we can live with that for the time being where as if it's 1 and 2 then we're buggered.
Again, thanks for you input guys,

Jeff
 

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Piston Pusher It's not just the length of the input arm, that gives the total range of movement, it also has to stop in the right position for each gear, which is why it may be necessary adjust the detents in the gate plate of the shifter as well
If say drive and 2nd are close but in different directions, it may be possible to introduce a little clearance in the cable/lever connection to allow a measure of "self aligning"

Foz Wanger make sure you have the same number of clicks in the input shaft as the shifter, dont worry about the park pos too much that frequently has a load of overtravel and is not actualy a gear, just a mechanical lock and make sure all other positions are right or very near. the input lever only operates a shuttle valve in the hydraulics of the box, and if partialy between gears can beputting partial pressure to the wrong gear as well as driving in a gear burning out clutches/ bands very quickly
 

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On my shifter gate Reverse has a positive detent. Moving forward the next detent is Park, no neutral position.

The reverse lock out is between Drive and Neutral, when you have to lift the R tab to move forward and can not be shifted from Drive to Neutral just by using the trigger.

As BGPop said, ensure that the shifter detents match the position of the gears in the box as you can select a position between the actual gears. This would pressure two gears at once burning out the box. If you have to trigger the shifter in any position other than the ones I previously mentioned the shifter detents are wrong.

Good luck with the test drive, but make it a short one to avoid damage until youre sure of whats actually happening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Quick update

The shifter will not select 1 or 2 (spoke to previous owner) and we bypassed the oil cooler and it works fine.

Thanks for the heads up on the shifter

Jeff :tup:
 
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