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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It's all happened quickly, I posted on the "wanted" section that I wanted a Ruby chassis and logbook, then someone gave me a link to a rough body for sale on Facebook. Then I saw an Mgb axle with 4 wire wheels and all the bits to fit them. Was already feeling slightly guilty about spending the money when Mygasser sent me a link to a Zetec with ready to run loom for a good price. I just mentioned to my Lovely wife what a bargain this was and she urged me to buy it.
So today we got back from our round trip.









Compared to the red one here, mine needs some slight attention.


The Zetec is supposed to arrive tomorrow.

Thank you to RnS and all who sent me the various links to start me on this.
Still looking for chassis and logbook.
 
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Discussion Starter #5

Zetec arrived today, I pulled the fwd gear box off and will be chucking it away- of course!




Dropped the engine in, didn't have any clearance problems!
 
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Discussion Starter #6
That is going to be excellent! It's great when the main parts of a project come together so quickly, keep us all posted!
Surprised me, and without help from RnS it wouldn't have happened!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
excellent well done ian , a new thread to follow ...has the pickup been left outside ?
Thanks Robert. In answer to your question:



No



Although it had to have some road time while we moved stuff into garage!
 

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Discussion Starter #9




I decided to use MGB axles cos they are available (and parts for them too) and by using wire wheels it looks vaguely similar to the original design.

Haven't decided whether to narrow these axles, it will look closer to original if I do narrow, compare 2 pics above where wheel sticks out more. Of course, it won't look too bad if I put on some fenders to suit.

Here is a similar car with wider fenders





I took these pics at Supernats this year, if anyone can put me in touch with the owner it would be helpful.
It looks sweet, but I think I prefer the really skinny wings as per original. They are expensive and hard to get so I will be going for some cut down 32 fenders, or similar.
 

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Liking this, I can remember being taken to school in one at about 7 years old and having the piss taken from the other kids. My dad and G/dad both had 7s and 10s .
 

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ian, put the fwd gearbox back on ebay with a 99p start and collection only. if it only makes a tenner or so it's all money towards the build.
neil.
 

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Liking this, I can remember being taken to school in one at about 7 years old and having the piss taken from the other kids. My dad and G/dad both had 7s and 10s .
If they have a spare chassis and v5 I'm interested.....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ian, put the fwd gearbox back on ebay with a 99p start and collection only. if it only makes a tenner or so it's all money towards the build.
neil.
Good point Neil, but ive left it outside in the rain!
 

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Discussion Starter #16

Short video showing how little I'm starting with. I can move it about on my own, although I got my wife to help me today, also thanks to Joel who helped me take delivery of engine and move stuff around on Tuesday. At least with it on its roof there is no stress, there is so little to get hold of or prop it up on at the moment.
 

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18 things off the top of my head
1. to delete the air con compressor, simply fit a 2000mm belt - IF you plan on power steering that is.
2. to have a slightly more rearward exiting exhaust to clear your engine mounts use a 1800cc Mondeo cast manifold - retro ford have 300 odd of them upstairs
3. get the down pipe for the Mondeo - it has an o-ring style gasket - not a gasket
3a don't try fitting a 4-2-1 style manifold
3b the modeo down pipe is cheap - 22 quid, and has the bung for oxygen sensor.
4. retro ford do a thermostat housing that fires the radiator pipe forwards if tight at firewall $$$$
5. retro ford make a rear bowl alloy sump and pick up
6. when you fit a oil pressure sender unit 'large' into the block, it wont fit, you need to buy a ford 289/302 style extension, real steel sell them for cheap- the block is 1/4 npt - national pipe thead, you have to clock the angled extension to clear the internal oil cooler thing
7. if you are using a type 9 , I think the side shifter transit is the one to get?
8. IF you fit a type 9, you need the type 9 style flywheel, 'aftermarket NON dual mass flywheel' £118 my pal has a new one, plus the 210mm pinto clutch and pressure plate you will need. - this aftermarket flywheel has the edis crank position teeth on the back.
9. if using a power steering rack and that pump, you need to know that the pas line from the pump - pressure side has a built in spring type coil, that smooths out the flow, you know its there as its crimped with a ferrule, if using a pas rack , the rack will pulse without it.
10. IF you attempt to fit a Cosworth t5 tremec onto it, first take a DEEP breath, as the t5 specific flywheels are £450 pounds, the Cosworth clutch is £150, 23 splines input, 241mm
11. p.s I know you like a t5..... - you will still need a tvr or s10 tail on it, you can't do anything but
use a ford case -Cosworth and fit the gears onto a gm -s10 output shaft to use th etail housing, speedo drive. - so STICK with the type9 - - the transit centre always have a few
12 the two stub things near the oil filter are not take offs for a oil cooler, they are cold water in and out, to cool an internal oil cooler, you need to have a take off to it from the bottom of the rad
13. there is a stock piece of plastic come shaped and 12 inches long, that acts I think like a venture in the water line to speed up the flow
 

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Discussion Starter #19
18 things off the top of my head
1. to delete the air con compressor, simply fit a 2000mm belt - IF you plan on power steering that is.
2. to have a slightly more rearward exiting exhaust to clear your engine mounts use a 1800cc Mondeo cast manifold - retro ford have 300 odd of them upstairs
3. get the down pipe for the Mondeo - it has an o-ring style gasket - not a gasket
3a don't try fitting a 4-2-1 style manifold
3b the modeo down pipe is cheap - 22 quid, and has the bung for oxygen sensor.
4. retro ford do a thermostat housing that fires the radiator pipe forwards if tight at firewall $$$$
5. retro ford make a rear bowl alloy sump and pick up
6. when you fit a oil pressure sender unit 'large' into the block, it wont fit, you need to buy a ford 289/302 style extension, real steel sell them for cheap- the block is 1/4 npt - national pipe thead, you have to clock the angled extension to clear the internal oil cooler thing
7. if you are using a type 9 , I think the side shifter transit is the one to get?
8. IF you fit a type 9, you need the type 9 style flywheel, 'aftermarket NON dual mass flywheel' £118 my pal has a new one, plus the 210mm pinto clutch and pressure plate you will need. - this aftermarket flywheel has the edis crank position teeth on the back.
9. if using a power steering rack and that pump, you need to know that the pas line from the pump - pressure side has a built in spring type coil, that smooths out the flow, you know its there as its crimped with a ferrule, if using a pas rack , the rack will pulse without it.
10. IF you attempt to fit a Cosworth t5 tremec onto it, first take a DEEP breath, as the t5 specific flywheels are £450 pounds, the Cosworth clutch is £150, 23 splines input, 241mm
11. p.s I know you like a t5..... - you will still need a tvr or s10 tail on it, you can't do anything but
use a ford case -Cosworth and fit the gears onto a gm -s10 output shaft to use th etail housing, speedo drive. - so STICK with the type9 - - the transit centre always have a few
12 the two stub things near the oil filter are not take offs for a oil cooler, they are cold water in and out, to cool an internal oil cooler, you need to have a take off to it from the bottom of the rad
13. there is a stock piece of plastic come shaped and 12 inches long, that acts I think like a venture in the water line to speed up the flow
Wow, lots of info, thank you for taking the time to share all that.
I don't think I'll be doing much with the engine for a while yet, but there is lots for me to refer to here when the time comes.
I was planning to use RX8 gearbox on adaptor.
I want to lose the air con AND the power steering, is there a simple belt swap to do that?
Otherwise I could do as you suggest with the 2000mm belt and just leave the power steering pump turning fresh air.

All the stuff re clearance issues I won't know about till Ive got chassis sorted.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
My wife is calling the car "Baby Ruby" so I've changed the thread title, anyway "Austin Ruby" wasn't very imaginative.
This is a bit of a change for me, all my previous builds were bits of Taxis. And I've never owned anything that was really old, this shell is about 83 years old, strengthened with wood!


Today I pulled a load of wood out and put steel box section in to strengthen the shell, which was wobbling about. Now it feels solid.



Above pic shows how one sill was bent and rusty, the other one was fresh air! I've now put some 4x2 box on in the same position, and this connects to 35mm box which goes up the b pillar.



Here with the box section in place.



I got this stuff to remove the rust, starting inside the roof (while shell is upside down). It doesn't seem to do anything, I tried using Kurust and it turns blue, you can see it actually working.
Question: can I brush on some etch primer to protect the metal after I've cleaned it up? Will it react with the effect of the Kurust?

Another reason why this car is different for me, no V8 this time! Although I love the sound and performance of a V8, the Zetec should be a lot more economical, and with the Ruby being so tiny it should still be quick enough.
I had been thinking about an A30, but the Ruby is even smaller, ideal for my limited space.
The plan is to end up with something that looks roughly like a stock Ruby, but with more modern and usable running gear. Like brakes that aren't cable operated!
 
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