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Discussion Starter #1
Yep me again ! just about solved all other probs but was just pondering ? why would i need a prop/uj's on an altered ? Having no suspension , will chassis flex and torque really matter that much ? Havent had a good look at front engined stuff before so this is totally new to me , any foto's/advice etc would be greatly appreciated.

cheers
Neil
 

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The Camino Kid
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I'm sure soemone with more experience will be able to help more but this is my take on it. I would think you'd need a prop of some description no matter how long or short. I think the UJs are there to take up any change in pitch either from the axle or trans. I don't know whether a perfectly inline set-up is recomended or is even possible. I would think that you would have to engineer in some sort of "play" otherwise the bearings etc in the trans and axle would be under so much strain they're life would be dramatically shortened. I'm probably wrong but that's how I see it. UJs there for smoothe running of the drivetrain components. Rog.
 

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If there is a lack of space, then an Oldham coupling could be used. Otherwise, Britdragster is correct, some kind of prop shaft is required to take out the tolerances between the two.
 

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richard rawlplug
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my set up,
 

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Lost in the ozone. . ....
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I think UJs would be important on even a short propshaft to eliminate any misalignment between motor and axle.
I can´t imagine the motor/axle as one solid lump, small amounts of flex/misalignment over time would probably crack the bellhousing.
 

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I've heard of Greek couplers being used in alterds, don't know anything about them though, except they do not use uj's & I believe need the axle pinion & gearbox end fitting with splined fittings. Said to be stronger than uj's but I would imagine very expensive, someone on here might know of them.
Chucks

Edit

Pages 72-73 in the Mark Williams catalogue show them (took a while to download)
Here's the link
http://www.markwilliams.com/pdfdownload.aspx
 

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Lost in the ozone. . ....
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Quote page 73,

"Couplers and splined shafts should not be used unless perfect alignment is assured."

I suppose big horsepower kills UJs.
 

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Any two items not perfectly aligned rotating at high speed will very soon let go so yes a coupling of some description with a certain amount of movement for alignment is necassary. Having said that the better two items are aligned the less vibration there is then the longer it all lasts so it,s well worth taking as much time as necassary to get it as good as you can. A friend of mine builds trikes and has built a couple without a propshaft using a propshaft coupling bolted directly to an axle flange so with great accuracy and patience I guess it can be done but still scepticle as to how long it would last.
 

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Quote page 73,

"Couplers and splined shafts should not be used unless perfect alignment is assured."

I suppose big horsepower kills UJs.
The thing that kills UJ's is not horsepower/torque, but the two shafts that they connect being aligned to well. They need a certain amount of misalignment to survive.

Greek Couplers are cheap, they are nothing more than multi row chains on two sprockets.
 

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The thing that kills UJ's is not horsepower/torque, but the two shafts that they connect being aligned to well. They need a certain amount of misalignment to survive.

Greek Couplers are cheap, they are nothing more than multi row chains on two sprockets.
These are the couplers I was thinking of, I may have got the wrong name for them but this is what I thought were Greek couplers


As shown on the Williams web site
Hope this helps, sorry for any confusion
Chucks
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Woahhh , thanks for all the above ! Have MW and strange engineering catalogues , guess am just lookin for reasurance of anyone who's running this stuf, will probably go with uj's as am not looking at that many horses yet . Thanks again guys.

Next question then ! When we built the gasser all them years ago we had a 2.5" solid bar bowt 3 yards long with a flange on one end (for 9" ford ) and some machined collars that clamped into the main bearings front and back of bbc (spare block !), so it all lined up neatly in't chassis ready for making motor plate and mountings etc. Nway has anyone got one ? similar ? shorter and for rover to 9" rear , will rent/buy if no longer required .

Cheers ,
Neil

oops movin to wanted, sorry tis not reeely tech is it ?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
my set up,
rev jim , would reeeely like to visit u bud , need to look at and examine ur set up ! Looks good and in engineering terms if it dont look right it aint right , am travelling to pick up bits n stuf late january / early feb . can i pop in ?
 

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richard rawlplug
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rev jim , would reeeely like to visit u bud , need to look at and examine ur set up ! Looks good and in engineering terms if it dont look right it aint right , am travelling to pick up bits n stuf late january / early feb . can i pop in ?
..of course,pm me nearer the time..
you've got me scratching my head now .... my axle seems to go behind the frame/cage rather than through it like your's ............:S

:tup:
phil,it does/did/can..look behind the axle tube/hub...the original is still there so i can put a longer shell on it..(or chop the front of the chassis to make a slingshot)

it was the best way to get the frame to fit the body and to shorten the wheelbase (think we lost 12"or so.)
 

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phil,it does/did/can..look behind the axle tube/hub...the original is still there so i can put a longer shell on it..(or chop the front of the chassis to make a slingshot)

it was the best way to get the frame to fit the body and to shorten the wheelbase (think we lost 12"or so.)
ah thats what i thought , after i looked a bit harder ...
just out of interest ,what are you using for a prop guard ? are you running it through a tube ?

cheers mate :tup:
 

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richard rawlplug
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hi phil,imagine a tube split lengthways with vertical tabs to mount to the chassis,it alledgedly passed tech and i have no doubt due to its construction.(kin heavy)
i dont have a pic as it was always being painted...when i pop to the shop i will get a picture..

a tube would be best to use,guess it helps to keep the bits in...
 

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hi phil,imagine a tube split lengthways with vertical tabs to mount to the chassis,it alledgedly passed tech and i have no doubt due to its construction.(kin heavy)
i dont have a pic as it was always being painted...when i pop to the shop i will get a picture..

a tube would be best to use,guess it helps to keep the bits in...
cheers mate i was going to run mine through a tube , but it's always nice to know what others have done

i promise to start a build thread soon :tup:
 
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