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Dragging not Bragging
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I was thinking about what to paint my chassis with ................. and ive had a thought that as the weather is against me

Has anybody used plasti dip ????

You know the stuff thats on the handles of all my tools (cheap) :incheek:

Before anyone says it ............... its now available to brush and spray on not just dip :lol:

:idea: My idea was that it grips bare metal and should be impact resistant (stone chip)

What do you think ?
 

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Heavy Oiler
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Visited Corvette Kingdom the other day and was speaking to Scotty about what they use as it looks so good............
Satin black Hammerite, sprayed on.
 

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Go to a auto paint supplier and get 5ltr of black chassis paint you can brush roll or spary,stickslike s..t to a blanket used on lorrys,use a rust killer first off ebay about £12 ltr just need to dust off rust before using needs rust to work.
 

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Compulsive chicken choker
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I'm sure the plasti-dip stuff starts to peel if it gets damaged, which will then let water in. My experience with any Hammerite product is that it will chip & flake off if painted onto bare steel (confirmed by a Practical Classics paint test a couple of years ago).

If its your new front clip & you want something that can be done quickly using "off the shelf" paints from Halfords & such like, I'd sand it all down & give it a coat of U-Pol acid etch primer (available from Halfords in aerosol cans, its a red can). This isn't as good as epoxy or etch primer, but is far superior to standard "rattle can" primer. Follow that up with a brushed on coat of primer (David's Zinc 182 or similar) then a couple of coats of synthetic chassis black, black stone chip etc.
 

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Also if you use hamerite and need to touch up you used to have to wait 6wks for it to cure or it would act like stripper.
 

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Heavy Oiler
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Must admit. I haven't had great results with hammerite myself and was going to try POR 15, but having seen the results Scotty gets, I'm having a rethink. I think he said he primes 1st before applying hammerite.
He reckons it's as tough as anything else he's tried, and it is satin smoothrite (if that makes a difference)
 

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used hammerite on my vice months ago, still soft now, can imprint a thumb nail. Used it on the leaf springs of my 100e, big drips when applying and has flaked in places. Theres big problems applying over it later too. Anything with thinners in it applied over it will re-activate it and craze, it's like synthetic, skins over and can't be worked. That said, I did dry brush a pair of steering arms which we're cast textured and had surface rust and it's probably the best result I've had with it. I'd still say stick to proper etch, sealer, stone chip, primer and top coat. Do a test panel before as some don't work with others.
 

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Compulsive chicken choker
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Must admit. I haven't had great results with hammerite myself and was going to try POR 15, but having seen the results Scotty gets, I'm having a rethink. I think he said he primes 1st before applying hammerite.
He reckons it's as tough as anything else he's tried, and it is satin smoothrite (if that makes a difference)
That mirrors my experience, it needs etch priming first or it just chips off, I've just done this on my diff. Etch prime then two sprayed coats of Smooth Hammerite. There are better paints out there (2K would be far more durable) but it was over the holiday so I just used what I'd got on the shelf.
 

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Hammer-based simpleton
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Plastidip will grip if it's got a roughish surface, I did some bike bits with it sprayed a few yrs ago. A chap on a mil Landy forum was going to use it on his chassis, but I don't go there anymore so dunno how it worked out for him. Done my Minx in Jotmastic 87 marine epoxy, it's tough as feck and no isocyanates though it's a 2-pack. It's very gluey stuff so best thinned & sprayed if you want posh. About £45 for just under 5 litres posted. Then chassis black over the top.
 

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i have to disagree with anyone who thinks smoothrite is crap.i rattle canned my chassis and roll cage with the stuff.after 4 weeks cure i cut it back with t -cut then polished it with colour magic polish.that was ten years ago!the car has been on the road for the last 5 years and apart from the odd stone chip its as good today as it was when i did it.most people think its powder coated when they see it! if applied correctly its the dogs bollocks.:tup:
 

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Nowheresville
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Gloss black Smoothrite was great 25 years ago - always used it for touching up powder coat thin spots, inaccessible corners, etc., without a problem.

Then, a few years ago they seemed to change the formulation and it turned into a thin, browny-tinged slop that needed more than one coat to cover properly. Haven't used it since.
 

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Smoothrite ok with me, easy to apply seems to withstand weather etc, will use again unless after a show finish!
 
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